What and Where to Eat and Stay
“Gouna”, souma, xynomyzithra; the triptych of Paros’ culinary essence. Around this core, in some coffee shops, restaurants and taverns, mostly in the south part of the island, you’ll find traditional delicacies like artichokes with broad beans in lemon and olive oil sauce, escargots with garlic sauce, meatballs with yellow pumpkin. And you’ll also discover many cheeses; apart from the great xinomyzithra, they make amazing graviera, touloumotiri, krasotiri, that you should make sure to ask for.
And, of course, you’ll eat fish. A lot of fresh fish at the taverns and the restaurants opened and run by the sons of fishermen, many of whom still have their own caiques and source their own fish. And you’ll have octopus, that you’ll see drying in the sun all over the island.
The great popularity of Paros, both within and outside Greece, has brought along the respective crowds, and as a result you’ll find fish carpaccio, ceviche and tartare side by side with the tomato and courgette balls (just like some years ago, you found sushi everywhere, together with the traditional dishes).
However, the traditional local cuisine is so powerful that it welcomes new, foreign, flavours, and effortlessly mixes them with its own, and nods to foodies offering them an aromatic wild greens pie next to crab tartare.
In Paros, you’ll eat and drink well, and you’ll become privy to a wide variety of fish- wild greens- and vegetable-based delicacies that allow ceviche, tartare and carpaccio a place next to them.
Depending on the mood, you can select between a coffee shop that’s been around for decades, a family-run fish tavern with its own caique, a well-kept restaurant that serves modern Greek food, or even a restaurant with fusion cuisine that favours local products from Paros and Greece. The culinary tour of the island starts in Parikia, goes through Naoussa, then through Lefkes, and down south. Apart from the taverns and the restaurants below, there are many more that you can discover yourselves, to experience the joy of finding a small culinary gem.
*“Gouna” is an amazing fish mezze: mackerel that has been left in the dun to dry for 5-6 hours and is then charcoal-grilled.
*Souma is a strong traditional drink, like tsipouro (traditional pomace raki) or raki made from the distillation of grape marc.
In Parikia
To Bountaraki: traditional little tavern, favoured by locals, with a lovely balcony overlooking the harbour of Parikia. Traditional Greek cuisine – the rooster pasta is must–, fresh seafood and some traditional Paros dishes. Polite and friendly service.
(Tel.: 0030 2284 022297)
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Stou Fred: in a beautiful “secret” garden, French chef Fred Chesneau cooks wonderful fusion cuisine using Greek products. Lots of French customers, a menu that changes weekly, and a very polite, friendly host, always willing to explain everything and hear what you think of the food. A great option for a special night. (Tel.: 0030 697 044 8763)
Henri G.: housed in a lovely neoclassical building with a view of the harbour of Parikia from its rooftop, where chef Henri Guibert, with roots in Constantinople and Paris, creates sophisticated fusion dishes using Greek products. His Greek truffle risotto and the cotton candy with chocolate and crunchy caramel are very popular. (tel. 0030 2284 024407)
Evinos bar: the steps you need to climb to reach this bar on the beachfront road are worth the amazing sea view of Paros harbour. Great music and great cocktails served with popcorn and peanuts, so make sure to have eaten before. (Tel.: 0030 697 441 3232)
In Naoussa
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Mario: in an atmospheric corner of the old port of Naoussa, Marios Tsahpinis, form a family with a long tradition in hospitality, has created one of the best, most loved, restaurants on the island. The menu comprises of new Greek cuisine based on fresh fish, with light, aromatic and distinct dishes. Giannis Markoulis is the chef in charge. Apart from the famous fish pasta, make sure to order the grilled sardines with vine leave sauce served with a beetroot and quinoa salad. The fresh tuna filet is also great (tataki style grilled) with smoked aubergine puree and tomato sauce, a bit like hunkar begendi with tuna. Reservations are required. (Tel.: 0030 2284 051047)
Ouzeri ton naftikon: a mezze restaurant in the old harbour that has been open since 1950. Swarmed by people daily, for its fish mezze and mostly for its gouna – charcoal-grilled mackerel, that has dried in the sun for 5-6 hours. Great, professional service that manages despite the pressure and the crowds. Reservations required. (Tel.: 0030 2284 051300)
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Barbarossa: an exuberant place, just like its owner Evgenios Hamilothoris, playing loud 90s music, with international celebrities among the guests, a staff of 20, over 150 wine labels – including 20 champagnes. Experienced chef Dimitris Nikolis, has masterfully created a menu focused on fish and seafood, including delicious dishes with gourmet touches, as well as traditional local recipes. We recommend the slow cooked octopus in honey, Marsala wine and caramelised onions, the white grouper fricassee with wild greens from the island, the grilled scallops and the sea urchin pasta. Its sushi, and especially the inside out, selection is also impressive. The location is amazing, overlooking the chapel of Agios Nikolaos and the Venetian castle. Reservations required.
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Kapari (Sagrioti park, Agios Dimitrios beach): the space resembles a nice tavern, but the menu is of restaurant standard. In the cool, elevated veranda, and in the garden, you’ll eat seafood and fish dishes with a unique twist, be it a special sauce or an unusual garnish. We enjoyed the salatouri appetiser, made with turbot, pink pepper and spring onion, garnished with mayonnaise. The grilled cuttlefish has a sweet, delicate taste. The fresh tuna filet from Kalymnos is grilled over charcoal and arrives juicy with a side of quinoa, Paros pickles and “Hirovoskos” wild fennel olive and lemon sauce (a local delicacy). Manolis Kaparis and his son Andreas, use many family recipes, and the service is polite and effective. (Tel.: 0030 22840-52070)
I Palia Agora (Kafenio Gavalas): open since the 60s, this place keeps tradition alive with mezze like fried calamari and picarel, its famous meatballs, the aubergine sauce etc. Every evening, a queue forms in front of its distinctive green door, and if you get one of the tables on the alley, next to the tavern, you’re lucky. (Tel.: 0030 2284 051847)
Mantzourana: Anna and Giannis, two young people, have created a laidback restaurant that has become a favourite among both locals and visitors, focused on meat dishes, using ingredients from Paros and from their own vegetable garden. The menu is small but creative, and includes fries with egg and feta sauce, beef served with wine and onion sauce, liver with raisins etc. The service is pleasant and friendly. (Tel.: 0030 2284 771171)
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Siparos: right next to the sea, on the way to Santa Maria, with a lovely, cool garden in white and blue shades, surrounded by green creating a very peaceful atmosphere. Chef Hristos Stellas prepares well-made food focused on fish and seafood, including local recipes, like the amazing Paros chickpea stew, cooked in the traditional skountavlo clay pot, with rosemary and garlic. The angler linguini is amazing, the fish carpaccio with sea urchin and seaweed is quite good, as is the shrimp ragou pasticcio. You can select your fish for frying or grilling from the display. (Tel.: 0030 2284 052785)
Amalaya (on the Naousa-Marpisa road): Amalaya means fish land. The owners are children of fishermen, with their own caique, and offer fresh grilled and fried fish, as well as more modern dishes like grilled tuna with broccolini, chilli, sweet potato cream and Stremenos prosciutto. They also offer meat dishes. It’s right next to the sea, with romantic vibes, and very polite service. (Tel.: 0030 697 448 1345)
In Ampelas
Hristiana: an authentic fish tavern – with their own caique – right next to the sea, across from Naxos. A very romantic place, where everyone receives the exact same service, no matter whether you come from rags or riches. “Hristiana” is known for its kakavia soup, the lobster pasta and fresh fish. (Tel.: 0030 22840-51573)
Blue Oyster: right next to the sea, probably the only place in Paros with such a variety of shellfish (which you can see in the aquarium). They also offer raw fish (carpaccio, ceviche, tartare), an amazing baked goat, a delicious fish fricassee with egg-lemon sauce, and the incredible string beans with fruit and nuts. (Tel.: 0030 22840-52707)
Thalami: it has the feel of being straight out of an old Greek film, with the tables set under the tamarisk trees. The fish is fresh, delivered daily by their fishboat. Ask for the lakerda (pickled bonito fish) they make themselves, as well as the Paros fried octopus and the fennel pies. Their gouna is amazing. The staff is polite and very helpful. (Tel.: 0030 22840-53351)
In Lefkes
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I pezoula tis Lihoudias – Sweet smelling kitchen: climbing up the steps, you’ll find yourselves in a dreamy little veranda with the sweetest aesthetics and a peaceful view of the surrounding villages. The small kitchen where Mrs. Polina and her daughter Anna prepare their fresh homemade pasta, their pies, their cakes and their casserole dishes is decorated in the same, sweet, fairy tale style. Here you can try traditional Greek casserole dishes – gemista (rice stuffed tomatoes and peppers) imam bayildi etc– great pasta dishes, and lovely cakes. They give lessons on breadmaking and filo spreading. Reservations required. (Tel.: 0030 2284 043189)
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Klarinos: a famous meat tavern with large skewers, charcoal grilled meats and casserole dishes (chickpea stew, fava stew, moussaka, rabbit stew etc). The seating area is in a dreamy covered veranda with potted basils, and a view of the surrounding mountains. The pork is from their farm, and the tomatoes and potatoes from their vegetable garden. The rest of the ingredients and produce is either from Paros or when demand rises, from Naxos. The lamb and pork chops are their trademark dish. We also recommend the kontosouvli (large skewer of pork) and the kokoretsi (intestines wrapped around offal), as well as the lovely xinomyzithra cheese. (Tel.: 0030 22840-41608)
Aranto: with fresh, crispy vibes from the bright white tables and chairs and the lovely covered balcony with the calming mountainous view. Simple, well-prepared food, mixing tradition and modern cuisine: aubergine rolls, tomato balls, basturma pies, stuffed chicken filet, oven-baked chickpea stew, great rib eye, beetroot risotto, and cuttlefish risotto. Great, friendly service. (Tel.: 0030 2284 044070)
In Prodromos
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Tsitsanis: it first opened in 1969 as a coffee shop where the locals could play cards and checkers and drink ouzo, and now has turned into a cute and very dear grill-tavern. They have a cool backyard, a working juke box inside, and lovely naïf paintings by local painter Giorgos Marmarinos, as well as a few tables out front. Apart from their meat dishes, make sure to order the oven-baked chickpea stew, the courgette balls with red pumpkin and amazing kefalotyri cheese. The owner, Vlasis Roussos and his wife Maria Tzanakopoulou are in charge of the kitchen. It’s located at the entrance of the village. (Tel.: 0030 2284 041375)
Kalitehniko kafenio: right on the main square, with retro décor and great doses of character. Apart from the shellfish that Mr Antonis regularly catches, you can enjoy a variety of delicious dishes including capers salad, baked aubergine with tomato and cheese, stuffed calamari, octopus in wine sauce, baked goat with potatoes. (Tel.: 0030 2284 042033)
In Marpisa
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I taverna tis Haroulas: This tavern serves an incredible variety of food under two enormous mulberry trees on the main square. Mrs Haroula, with her son Irineos, and her husband Nikos (they’ve been married for 56 years, and are still in love with each other like the day they met), prepare a panorama of Paros cuisine including the best tomato balls, rabbit patties, breaded brains, fried beef testicles, aromatic fennel pies, kalogeraki (aubergine stuffed with chicken and cheese served with tomato sauce), fried stuffed courgette blossoms etc. They grow most of the vegetables they use, and source the meat either from Paros or Naxos. (Tel.: 0030 22840-41440)
In Drios
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The Green Project: a restaurant that’s a category of its own, with the young owner, Giannis Ragkousis telling us that “I’m a farmer who opened a cafeteria”. With “cafeteria” he describes a restaurant-cocktail bar in a verdant garden with tables mixed with sofas for more chilled situations in the evening. The menu is small with wonderful dishes using vegetables, fruit and herbs from Giannis’ family farm. Try the watermelon salad with tomatoes and feta, Green Project’s twist on a traditional dish farmers used to eat. We also recommend the cheese platter with local cheeses and homemade marmalades and chutneys. They make interesting cocktails, play great music, and have very polite service. (Tel.: 0030 22840-41388)
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“The Beach Project” is “Green Project’s” new “brother” on Hrisi Akti, Drios. A laid-back beach bar with hip vibes, a lovely garden surrounded by reeds, amazing huge marble tables, and a funky menu including burgers, pizza, salads and a great selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes. Go for brunch or lunch, and definitely try the coconut milk smoothies made with their own fruit, as well as the countless healthy salads. They offer sunbeds and umbrellas on the beach. (Tel.: 0030 2284 041388)
In Aliki
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Thalassamou, on Piso Aliki beach: a truly idyllic place, with tables on the sand, under the tamarisk trees, or in the cool garden. Your first impression will be that this is a fish tavern, but the menu created by experienced chef patron Marios Salamatanis (of the historic Salamatanis tavern in Kifisia, Athens) is that of a nice restaurant. They serve light, aromatic Greek cuisine. The bogue with beetroot cous-cous, the tinker mackerel with tzatziki gazpacho, and the cod mosaic with parsley powder, wild garlic mayonnaise and saltwort stand out from the menu. The atmosphere is laidback and ideal for the holidays – from the sea straight to the table for a meal. (Tel.: 0030 2284 091461).
To Mouragio: on the bay, serving fresh fish and nice mezze with a good selection of meat dishes. Make sure to order the squid ink risotto, the steamed mussels, the gouna and whatever is the fish of the day when you visit. (Tel.: 0030 22840-91165)
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To balkoni tou Aki: on the pier of Aliki, a nice tavern with a wide range of appetizers, including raw, Greek (all of them hot), as well fusion – like for example tuna carpaccio with guacame. The menu includes many pasta dishes with fish or seafood, all of them perfectly prepared and delicious, as well as a small selection of meat dishes. We recommend ordering the scorpionfish pasta with scorpionfish filet, linguini and vegetables. It’s an establishment that runs really smoothly, under the guidance of the owner Theologos Skandalis (Akis) who also cooks with the rest of the kitchen team. (Tel.: 0030 2284 091512)
In Piso Livadi
Halaris: a nice ouzeri on the port, overlooking the caiques. Souma and a wide variety of ouzo along with many mezze. If there’s tuna available (they catch it themselves) you must order it. The shrimp pies and the fish soup are also great. (Τel.: 0030 2284 043257)
Read also:
5 great eateries in Mykonos, serving Greek and Mediterranean cuisine
Patmos: 9 restaurants that make a difference
Southern Evia: The best taverns and the best-known restaurants
