A couple of metro stops down from Monastiraki but a world away from the tourist-led eateries in the centre, Petralona is home to some fine traditional tavernas that are a hit with Athenians who love the mellow streets and bohemian vibe, but also to a growing band of new style taverns that are tweaking classic dishes and bringing them up-to-date.
Xrysa Xrysa
So good they named it twice, the tavern takes its name from owner and chef Xryssa Protoppapa who moved away to nearby Keramikos but felt the pull of Petralona and returned to delighted locals. Stylish and well presented, the room is bright and airy with fresh flowers on the few tables, and the food is similarly elegant. Many of the recipes are recognisable as Greek classics but have been refined and updated for the modern palate.
Working with small producers and artisan suppliers, the dishes encapsulate the warmth of Greek cuisine and of the chef who lovingly plates them. Exuberant and generous flavours are matched with charming service, a great Greek wine list, and a handful of pavement tables for watching the world go by, adding up to a classy, graceful dining experience that is one of the best in the area.
Address: Eoleon Kllisthenos 40, Ano Petrolana 11852, Tel.: 21303 56879
Kappari
One of the first of the Neo-tavernas to open in 2006, Kappari offers traditional Greek cuisine with creative touches that make it stand it out from more conservative neighbours. A celebration of Greek products and techniques, the bright main room and airy garden are fitting venues for an ambitious menu that changes everyday with whatever is in season. Expect dishes rarely found in grill joints, and ingredients that showcase the diversity of modern Greek gastronomy. A sister restaurant in Thiseio continues the theme in a lovely, old stone building.
Address: Dorieon 36, Ano Petrolana, 11851, Tel.:21034 50288
Volta
An old ‘Monopolio’, a state warehouse where controlled goods were sold, is now home to Volta, which means walk in Greek. Owned by Xenophon and his wife Elizavet, the warm interior is wooden and decorated with printing blocks and copper engraving plates in a nod to his former profession as a printer. Closed in July and August, the couple travel all over Greece collecting recipes and ingredients. ‘We wanted to show people what Greek cuisine is really like. It’s not just souvlaki, gyros and moussaka’ explains Xenophon, and indeed the menu often includes dishes from Smyrna, Constantinople, Crete, Thessaly, Thrace, Mani and from Aegean and Ionian islands. Even those familiar with regional specialities, however, might be surprised by the presentation and tweaks; Spanokopita, Spinach Pie, comes deconstructed as a salad. A great Greek wine list, with handcrafted tsipouros and craft beers, Volta is worth making a stroll to.
Address: Ippothontidon 10, Kato Petralona, 11854, Tel.: 21034 59172
Oikonomou
Coming up to a century of opening, Giannis Oikonomou began the business in 1930 with just one pot. On the corner of Troon and Kydantida, opposite the open air cinema Zephyros, it was taken over by his son Nikos in 1950 and it operated as a tavern and butchers until the 1970’s. Present owner Costas Diamantis continues to serve up the traditional family recipes that it is known for. Homely and proudly old fashioned, the wine choice is restricted to red or white, but when the barrel serving is as good as this, who cares? As Greek author Zisimos Lorenzatos commented ‘This store has only one defect, they cook better than your home.’ On a warm summer evening, at a streetside table with a carafe of cool white, and a selection of Chef Garyfallia’s no-nonsense dishes waiting to be tucked in to, there are few better places in Athens for a leisurely meal and people-watching.
Address: Troon 41, Ano Petralona, 11851, Tel.: 21034 67555
Aster
On the ground floor of a house, the interior is filled with mid-century furniture, an idiosyncratic bathroom, mismatched plates and old-fashioned tiled floors. The kitchen is open, but not in a stainless steel, trendy way, more like they knocked down a wall in a domestic house to make room which is what actually happened. Reminiscent of a quirky grandma’s home from years ago, Aster has actually only been open for just over a decade, and its great success is down to the terrific Crete-inspired menu. At busy times the queue snakes down the street as diners wait to be seated at this local hotspot. Beautiful ingredients are simply combined to show off the best products from Crete. Well presented as small plates, the dishes are hearty and flavoursome, truly reflecting the island cuisine, and when combined with great raki, Cretan hospitality, and daily specials, make it a favourite destination of a clued-up young crowd.
Address: Troon 48, Ano Petrolana, 11851, Tel.: 21034 16666
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