Once upon a time in Athens, venturing out for a coffee or a sweet treat meant far more than a simple café visit. It was an occasion – sometimes the most anticipated moment of the week. Young women would plan their outfits days in advance, exchanging ribbons, social tidbits and advice, treating the outing as both ritual and celebration.
Over time, cafés in the heart of the capital, from Zappeion to Plaka, took on a glamorous cultural presence. They were not merely gathering spots but vibrant salons where urban society converged. Poets and writers, aspiring politicians, diplomats, actors and composers all passed through their doors, and these spaces blossomed into centers of intellectual, artistic and romantic exchange.
Though the decades have shifted the city’s rhythm, a handful of Athenian cafés still quietly carry that spirit. They preserve the aura of a world that may have faded, yet lives on in atmosphere and memory. Here, we revisit them – places where the past still lingers, elegantly and invitingly, in the present.
01
Dexameni
At the foothills of Lycabettus hill, beside one of the city’s nicest open-air cinemas, and the impressive ancient Roman aquaeduct that this spot is named after, you can sit at a green metal table (usually after queueing for at least 10 minutes, as this place doesn’t accept reservations) and enjoy a real taste of Athens nostalgia.
Dexameni was once the haunt of acclaimed Greek writers Alexandros Papadiamantis and Kostas Varnalis, and poet Odysseas Elytis, in who’s honor a statue was erected in the square. The popular urban cafe emerged as an intellectual hub for many years until it closed its doors for a few years at the beginning of the 21st century. When it reopened in 2012, in a modern and renovated yet still cosy and buzzy rendition, it quickly regained its stature as one of the city’s favourite casual hangouts suitable at any time in the day when the climate is good – from morning coffee with the paper and a slightly boozy after-work meze, to a post-cinema drinks.
Order a frosty tap beer, icy tsipouro or an Aperol Spritz and some essential Greek meze dishes and let go in the carefree yet vibrant ambience in one of the most beautiful spots in the entire capital.
Dexameni Square, Kolonaki
02
Oraia Ellas
Situated, since 1920, on Mitropoleos Street, at the corner of the Pandrosou arcade, with interiors that are more reminiscent of a museum than a coffee shop, this old Athenian locale is laden with historical artefacts, original documents from the early 20th century, silkscreen prints, linocuts, antique engravings, utilitarian items, clothes and accessories from a different era.
During the warmest days of the year, you can opt to sit at its outdoor tables, although the view from the cafe’s first floor, with a splendid design overseen by renowned architect Dimitris Pikionis – is so lovely that you’ll probably be tempted to stay right there.
Grab a spot by the window and soak up the captivating beauty of the Anafiotika neighbourhood, which sprawls uphill, and the Acropolis, so close that you’ll feel you can reach out and touch them. Don’t forget to try some Turkish delight with your coffee.
Mitropoleos 9 & Pandrosou 36, Syntagma
03
Filion
On Skoufa Street, just a few meters down from the Church of Agios Dionysios, you’ll come across this cafe, a renowned intellectual haunt in Athens that has been attracting a select crowd for 32 years. Elegant yet unadorned, refined and unpretentiously cosmopolitan, Filion embodies the spirit and the aura of old Athens. The venerated establishment, once known as Dolce, stands steadfastly in place at the junction of Skoufa and Lykavittou streets.
At its outdoor tables, beneath the distinctive green awning inscribed with the name ‘Filion’, somewhat reminiscent of a Parisian café, you will always see figures from the local political arena, actors, artists, composers, and writers. They begin their day with a warm cappuccino and a piece of syrupy orange pie on the side, often delving into deep conversations.
In the quaint quarter of Kolonaki, Filion continues to serve exceptional sweets, including nostalgic Greek desserts like ‘sokolatina’, a rich, creamy chocolate cake. When there, also try their crepes and ice cream, which pair harmoniously with flavourful coffees.
Skoufa 31, Kolonaki
04
Alexandrino
Without question one of the most stylish and scenic cafes in the city, Alexandrino has an undeniable finesse that has captivated a loyal clientele who have loved its ambience and service for decades. The allure doesn’t only meet you indoors; the few marble tables placed on the pedestrian pavement of Emmanouil Benaki Street are invariably occupied, come morning or night, year-round.
Alexandrino is hewn from the very same fabric that once defined the old central Athenian cafes; it is innately destined to become a haunt and a rendezvous point. This place stands as a perpetual appointment for those drawn to its discerning music selection, its dollhouse-like milieu, and a home-like aura reminiscent of our ancestral living room.
The cafe’s decor and menu are visibly influenced by French bistro culture. In the evenings, the subdued lighting creates an unimaginably romantic atmosphere, perfectly condusive for unwinding and engaging in conversation. The bar, with its array of splendid cocktails and drinks, promises to lure you back as a cosy retreat of elegance and warmth.
Emmanouil Benaki 69A, Exarcheia
05
Iasemi
Among the most notable traditional coffeehouses in Athens, on the steps of Mnisikleous Street, Iasemi more than just a popular haunt for the locals who flock to its signature tables every weekend; it has also carved a niche as an attractive stop for tourists eager to savour homemade mezedes and exquisite handmade sweets under the Acropolis.
When the weather is not quite warm enough to settle on the photogenic Plaka steps, the cafe has a wonderfully cosy and stylish interior with a large, vintage-style fireplace that turns it into a snug and nostalgic getaway.
At Iasemi, whatever you choose to order is fresh and homemade. From the dishes of the day to the spoon sweets and fruit juices, it serves remarkable food, and over the past few years, has expanded to accommodate a burgeoning clientele. On the first floor, you’ll discover another elegantly designed room, featuring large windows with a view of Anafiotika.
Mnisikleous 23, Plaka
06
Cherchez La Femme
On Mitropoleos street, Athenians and tourists alike make a pit stop at a cafe that catches the eye of passers-by from the very first instance. The pretty cafe-bistro has gastronomic roots deeply embedded in Greek tradition, serving light meals and snacks inspired by classic recipes with a slightly modern twist, as well as hot drinks, delicious refreshments and desserts.
Sit inside, where a bar takes centre stage, or watch the world go by at an outdoor table, in the morning, when you can order a substantial and delicious breakfast with eggs, homemade jams, cold cuts and cheeses, or late into the evening with a glass of wine and light meal, observing the city’s bustling life. Alternatively, opt for an afternoon Greek coffee accompanied by the utterly chocolatey Cherchez La Femme cake, or a refreshing delicious homemade mandarin juice.
Mitropoleos 46, Monastiraki
07
Athénée
At the corner of Voukourestiou and Panepistimiou streets in central Athens, one of the city’s most historic meeting places continues to operate much as it has for decades. This landmark cafe first opened in the 1930s known as Zonar’s, quickly becoming ‘the’ meeting point for politicians, artists, writers and socialites who met here to discuss the day’s events over coffee while seeing and being seen. The current, renovated space preserves the spirit of the original establishment while presenting a more contemporary, polished interior that combines marble surfaces, polished wood and a mix of antique and modernm touches.
Throughout the 20th century the cafe developed a reputation as one of Athens’ most recognizable urban salons. Journalists stopped by between deadlines, theater actors arrived after evening performances, and prominent public figures made it a regular stop during the day. Today too, the location in the commercial heart of the city ensures a constant flow of office workers, shoppers and visitors moving between Syntagma Square, the University buildings and the luxury boutiques of the surrounding streets.
Order an espresso, freddo cappuccino or a classic cocktail and an indulgent dessert and sit at one of the outdoor tables watching the rhythm of central Athens unfold. Light dishes, salads, sandwiches and sweets accompany the drinks, while the steady movement of the crowd reflects the enduring role this historic cafe continues to play in the daily life of the capital.
08
Melina Cafe
On a small pedestrian street in Plaka, just below the whitewashed lanes of Anafiotika and a short walk from the Acropolis, this long-running cafe pays homage to Greece’s legendary actress and former Minister of Culture Melina Mercouri. Photographs, film stills and memorabilia from her life line the walls, recalling a figure whose voice and presence shaped modern Greek cultural identity and whose apartment once stood nearby.
The cafe has been part of the neighborhood for decades and follows the easy rhythm of Plaka throughout the day. Visitors stop for coffee before climbing toward Anafiotika, locals linger over breakfast or light lunch, and in the evening the small tables outside fill with people ordering drinks beneath vines and balconies. The atmosphere remains relaxed and familiar, with the steady flow of passersby typical of this historic part of the city.
Order a Greek coffee, freddo cappuccino or a glass of wine and accompany it with simple cafe fare such as pies, omelets, crepes, salads or a slice of cake. With its central location, open-air seating and enduring connection to one of Greece’s most celebrated cultural figures, it continues to draw both Athenians and visitors looking for a pause in the heart of old Athens.
09
Winter Garden, Grande Bretagne
Inside the historic Hotel Grande Bretagne on Syntagma Square, the Winter Garden is one of Athens’ most recognizable hotel cafés. Elegant yet relaxed, it sits beside a luminous atrium filled with tall palm trees, the source of its name, rather than opening directly onto the square. High ceilings, marble floors and classical detailing frame the space, while natural light filters in from the adjacent glass-roofed atrium, lending the room a calm, almost conservatory-like atmosphere. The hotel itself has welcomed heads of state, artists and travelers since the nineteenth century, and the café carries that quiet sense of continuity.
The Winter Garden functions throughout the day, beginning with breakfast and moving into light lunches and coffee service. It is above all a café, a place to pause rather than a formal restaurant, and it has become particularly known for its afternoon tea. Silver stands arrive layered with delicate pastries, finger sandwiches and, most famously, warm scones served with cream and preserves. The ritual of high tea here has become something of an Athenian institution.
Visitors often drop in after shopping along nearby Ermou and Voukourestiou Streets or between meetings in the government district, while hotel guests settle into the armchairs for coffee, tea or a glass of champagne. In the evenings, live piano music fills the hall, adding a gentle soundtrack to the setting. Though the menu includes well-prepared salads, pasta, seafood, meat dishes and desserts from the hotel kitchens, the Winter Garden’s enduring appeal lies in its refined café character, a bright indoor garden in the heart of the city where tea, conversation and music take center stage.
