Some trips you plan. Others sneak up on you after hearing about caramelized onion fava or a friend who swears he had the best shrimp pasta of his life in Syros. That’s often how the most memorable road trips begin — with a craving, a spark of curiosity, and a wide-open appetite for discovery.
This time, the road led to Syros, a Cycladic island with a dual soul: Catholic and Orthodox, cosmopolitan yet unmistakably Greek. Between neoclassical mansions and seaside tavernas, it’s the kind of place where driving and savoring go hand in hand — where distances are short, but pleasures are long.
We set off from Athens, choosing to drive so we could travel on our own terms. No schedules, no stress — just the ease of rolling onto the ferry and setting off with everything we needed from the get-go. The Avis car we rented gave us the flexibility to explore freely, to take detours for a dip or a bite, and to cruise the island’s winding roads with comfort and ease. In Syros, a road trip doesn’t just get you from A to B, it transports you to memorable experiences, full of sea air, seafood, and spontaneous stops along the way.
Ermoupoli greets you amphitheatrically draped across the hillsides, with terracotta rooftops glinting beneath the sun and its two iconic hills—Anastasis and Ano Syros—rising like sentinels above the bay. Symmetrical neoclassical mansions in pale hues, bell towers, and Orthodox and Catholic churches coexist in quiet harmony, while the Apollo Theater—a miniature La Scala tucked into the heart of town—offers a brush with the city’s cultural past. At the harbor, the grand Town Hall by Ernst Ziller welcomes newcomers with a first glimpse of Syros’ noble, urban charm.
And to fuel us in the perfect way, we made some excellent food stops that deliciously enhanced our experience and understanding of this magnificent island. What follows is our guide to Syros’ best places to eat.
01
Iliovasilema
First swim in the deep blue Aegean? Galissas is the natural choice—golden sands, clear waters, easy access, and a fully serviced beach. Right on the shore sits Iliovasilema, run by chef-owner Kostas Bougiouris for over three decades, where Syros’ culinary identity comes alive. Think fennel pie and loukoumades with San Michali cheese, orzo with veal cheeks, a velvet-soft seafood hünkâr beğendi with sea urchin, and bitter chocolate ice cream for the finish. Deeply rooted yet ever-evolving.
Galissas Beach
02
Elexis
After an afternoon among Ermoupoli’s neoclassical landmarks, we made our way to the rooftop of the Argini Hotel—a masterful conversion of a 19th-century mansion. At Elexis, the hotel’s refined restaurant, the sunset glowed across Ano Syros as we sampled emotionally honest plates: smoked eggplant salad with eel, citrusy artichokes with yuzu hollandaise, and grilled dentex with lime. The pairing? Anatolikos orange wine. We ended with a pavlova of basil yogurt, red fruit, and handmade ice cream. Modern Syros, exquisitely framed.
Apollonos 11–13, Ermoupoli
03
Meltemi
Up on the hill above Finikas Bay, Meltemi is what a summer taverna should be: breezy, welcoming, and full of local flavor. We cooled off after swimming in Agathopes with zucchini and tomato fritters, grilled sausages with fennel, sizzling saganaki with San Michali, and clay-pot veal with eggplant. Vegetables come from the family garden, the food is served generously, and everything lands on the table with warmth and humility.
Agathopes, Poseidonia
04
Dyo Tzitzikia St’Almyrikia
Sun-soaked and still salty from the sea, we found ourselves in Kini at this beloved beachfront taverna. Between locals and in-the-know visitors, we dove into a green shrimp salad with lime dressing, grilled sardines and prawns with house-made cocktail sauce, and a rich, ocean-scented shrimp pasta. The crustless zucchini pie? Legendary. We toasted the sunset with ouzo, then closed the meal with homemade walnut cake and ekmek, already plotting our return.
Kini
05
Amvix
One final meal before departure, and we trusted the locals. Ambix, across from the port, is where you come for proper Italian—homemade pasta, perfect pizza, and a charismatic host. Chef Roberto Brasola fell for Syros and stayed, turning out spinach ravioli, Calabrese spaghetti with anchovy and chili, and tortelli with prosciutto ragu and walnut sauce. The wood-fired pizzas—Sistina, Rugantina, and more—might just make you miss your ferry. And you won’t regret it.
Akti Papagou 26, Ermoupoli
+1
Prekas Grocery
We left Syros with more than memories. From loukoumi boxes by Denaxas, Kanakaris, and Korre to lemon and chocolate halvadopites, the island’s sweetness came home with us. We stocked up on thyme and sage honeys by Melisyros, sun-dried fennel, capers, fig jam, and “glykopantrema”—a dreamy marriage of nougat and dried figs. And of course, aged San Michali cheese and a bottle of Ousyra rosé, made from Fokiano grapes, to relive the elegance of Syros with every sip.
Ano Syros
