There’s a special corner of Greece, West Macedonia, that is daringly inviting. Some areas of it remain untouched and pristine, while others present a gentle, purposeful development. The region is dominated by natural splendour that reaches its pinnacle, and the locals exude a welcoming kindness that makes you yearn to claim it as your own. I’ve been to this region many times, but now, there’s an added layer.
Enter the cross-border initiative, “advenTOUR, Adventure across the borders” – “INTERREG IPA 2014-2020” for Greece and North Macedonia. The Greek National Tourism Organisation is spearheading its promotional campaign, aiming to benefit both countries. The intent is for areas in both nations, including Nimfaio, Lake Zazari and Petron, the local wineries, and Pelister National Park in North Macedonia, to collaboratively evolve into a comprehensive sustainable tourist destination. The focus is on nature-based activities. Together, these regions will draw closer, presenting a bouquet of offerings that could potentially stand out as a sought-after tourist package.
But let’s delve into this experience as we lived it, with the invaluable assistance of our partners in the project, including GNTO, XANTH, and the management authority of Pelister Park.
Our journey began from Athens. An early wake-up call, the day’s first coffee at the airport, and after a short and smooth flight, we touch down in Thessaloniki. Waiting on the Egnatia motorway is our green minibus, with the ever-steady, obliging, and affable Vaggelis behind the wheel, always ready to stop for our impromptu photo ops. We’re heading for Nymfaio. Including a brief pit stop, the journey to this picturesque village took about three hours. If you’re driving yourself, you’d likely make better time.
One
Nymfaio: An Ecological Lesson
The stone mansions glitter in the sun, standing at an altitude of 1,350 metres. The cobbled streets echo tales of Vlach housewives who traversed the entire Balkan region, laden with goods, only to return home adorned with precious metals. This Vlach village, once named Niveasta and favoured during the Ottoman Empire era, has evolved into a model of sustainable tourism, shining in its beauty on the slopes of Mount Vitsi. We see mosques, traditional chimneys, and roofs designed to easily shed snow; the bell tolls for Sunday service at St. George’s, and the Nikeios School has transformed into an Environmental Education Centre for the Brown Bear. A modest exhibit showcasing family heirloom photos becomes a tangible record of a resilient, industrious Hellenism. Majestic homes, boasting intricate ceiling carvings, rare woven textiles, and grand fireplaces, have been repurposed into welcoming inns. Meanwhile, local tavernas offer lessons in traditional culinary heritage.
In a fenced-off area within an oak forest, just outside the village, a sanctuary has been established for the brown bear. Alongside a wolf refuge in nearby Agrapidia, these havens offer glimpses into worlds where these wild creatures are celebrated as integral parts of our valuable ecosystem. Another emblematic stop in the village is the renowned church, the post-Byzantine church of St. Nicholas, built in 1867. Father (Papa) Yiannis, a distinctive figure, warmly guided us around the church, sharing its journey and evolution.
Two
Truffle Hunting
What came next was truly special. A truffle hunt, led by a remarkably trained Labrador named Hana who never seemed to tire. Evaggelia and Panos greeted us in the forest near Nymfaio, at a place called Lakos. Our walk began, following their guidance, with Hana quickly making her initial discoveries. Panos, one of the rare truffle hunters, shared absorbing information about truffles. For instance, a truffle’s lifecycle lasts a year, and they can be categorised into black and white varieties.
Once our forest adventure concluded and Hana had successfully located a great number of truffles, we returned to our starting point. There, Evaggelia had already begun preparations for our meal.
Soon after, we sampled one of the most delectable dishes – a fragrant, flavour-packed plate of orzo with mushrooms and truffle. As the conversation steered towards food, Nymfaio stands out for its delicious culinary offerings, where premium ingredients truly shine. Here, mouth-watering meats and vegetables, alongside traditional recipes, are crafted with an emphasis on taste and quality.
Three
At North Macedonia’s Pelister
The next morning, we set out for North Macedonia and its Pelister National Park. We drove past Florina, heading for the border. The checkpoint process took just a few minutes – travellers can use either an ID with Latin characters or a passport. One observation just beyond the border: almost every home, even apartment balconies, had red peppers drying in the sun. We swiftly passed through the city of Bitola, planning to return later, and continued towards Pelister.
Upon our arrival, park officials welcomed us, guiding us through the quaint Natural History Museum before embarking on our walk. We treaded a beautifully marked trail, walking for about an hour. Along the way, nature’s wonders unfurled, and at one vantage point, a segment of Bitola city unveiled itself. The park encompasses a diverse range of landscapes: alpine meadows, picturesque lakes, waterfalls, and expansive forests. It’s revered not just for its staggering scenic beauty, but also for its rich flora and fauna. In fact, it’s a sanctuary for many plant and animal species. This park draws visitors keen on mountain activities like hiking, mountaineering, and skiing.
Four
Stop at Bitola
The journey back took us through Bitola, known as the “City of Consuls” or “Monastir”. This vibrant, picturesque town is located at the heart of Ancient Pelagonia, a mere 14 kilometres from the Greek border. Elevated at 600 metres and set against the backdrop of the Varnoundas Mountains, the Dragor River – once known as the ancient Hydragoras – runs through its heart.
From Roman times, Bitola served as a key trading hub and pivotal stop on major roads linking the Adriatic to Constantinople. During the Ottoman Empire, significant nations kept consulates here, earning it the moniker “City of Consuls”. Today, a bustling pedestrian zone, flanked by grand neoclassical buildings and a myriad of shops, dictates the town’s pulse. Before leaving, make sure you visit the covered market, the iconic Clock Tower, and the St. Demetrius Cathedral from 1830.
Five
Adventures at Lake Zazari
Leaving North Macedonia behind, we headed straight to Limnochori in Greece. With invaluable assistance from Nikos Voglidis of the Artemis alternative activities enterprise, we found ourselves canoeing on Lake Zazari. This serene, almost untouched lake presents a fresh perspective of the region. Beyond Zazari, you’ll find four lakes, vast stretches of lush vineyards, exquisite wines, Natura areas with refuges for rare birds and majestic birds of prey. Complementing this scene are blossoming fruit trees, turning the landscape poetic, prehistoric lakeside settlements, vibrant Byzantine churches, hot springs, and a gentle therapeutic breeze that envelops you.
Six
Amongst the Xinomavro Vines
Day three saw us exploring the Xinomavro vineyards. This distinct grape variety, bearing its dark-coloured grapes, produces a wine whose reputation spans the globe. We stood at points where the lakes’ views harmoniously melded with the vine leaves. The ripe grapes hinted at a standout wine. Indeed, within hours, we entered the grand gates of the Alpha Estate. Here, we were treated to a tour of their remarkable facilities, delving into the nuances of the terroir and tasting wines whose exceptional fragrances linger in my memory still.
+1
Dining in Sklithro
Our journey culminated in a sublime culinary experience. Stopping for a meal at Thomas’s restaurant in Sklithro was the crowning moment of a trip where everyone gave their very best. Our seasoned guide, Mrs Evgenia, tirelessly provided insights about points of interest. Some details linger in my memory, and some have faded. To be frank, there were moments when the landscape and the sheer magnitude of the experience overshadowed any description. Whether you see this journey as a day trip, venturing as far as North Macedonia and engaging in an activity in Greece, or view it as a three-day excursion, it offers a unique opportunity to decompress, unwind, and find tranquillity.
