As the temperatures rise, Athenians head outside on starry summer nights for drinks and bites to eat on sun-bleached squares shaded by trees. The flagstones and tarmac leach the day’s heat into the night and moths dance in the light of street lamps, while waiters waltz around tables with drinks held shoulder-high on trays and children race around untroubled by school bedtimes. The focal point of neighbourhood social scenes and the heart of local nightlife, Athens’ squares or ‘platies’ are the best place to experience the city as locals do.

17

Plateia Mavili

Next to the American Embassy, Mavili is actually a triangle, but who is counting sides when there is so much fun to be had? Gorgeous gelato is found at Epik, one of the best ice cream parlours in the whole of Athens, where the bright and funky flavours are made by hand every day. Squeezed in between a pizzeria and a bar, the look is retro but the tastes are bang up to date and feature the finest Greek ingredients.

Delicious cakes and coffees are to be had at Pablo’s Bakery, alongside artisan breads and a selection of ready-to-eat meals freshly prepared each day. Further along the street is Fish Market, who work mainly with small dayboats to find the best sustainable catch of the day. The menu is small but the chefs will prepare the fish anyway you like – grilled, sashimi, tartar, ceviche, carpaccio, tiradito – all washed down with a good selection of local wines.

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Photo: Flower/Facebook
Photo: Flower/Facebook

Flower is at the centre of the square with chairs arranged around the fountain. Romantic, with great Italian-style pizzas and a varied drinks card, Flower is perfect for summer nights under the starry skies. Neighbouring Kyrios is an elegant cafe bar with classical styling and lovely art deco details, ideal for evening cocktails in a glamourous setting. In contrast, Briki is a legendary haunt, known throughout Athens for its untamed impromptu parties, varied clientele, and eclectic decor.

Many a night has begun here with a quick drink and the best intentions, and ended with bleary eyes blinking in the daylight of a new day. To soak up the excesses of the night before, revelers head to the Kantina, originally a food truck on the street, and one of Athens’ best known ‘vromiko’ (street food) venues, where huge and hearty hot dogs and meat skewers are enjoyed by club goers, late night workers, and the odd celebrity on a night out.

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Photo: Cyrano en Ville/Facebook
Photo: Cyrano en Ville/Facebook

Plateia Vrazilias

A couple of blocks away from Mavili on Michalakopoulou Street is the exotically named Platia Vrazilias, Brazil Square. Another triangle, until a few years ago it was only known by the neighbourhood dog walkers, but now this corner of Ilissia has grown into a little scene of its own. First to jump the gun was LOT 51, an all-day café and bar with a cool vibe and DJ’s playing at night. With a classic brunch menu, it is a great place to catch up with friends after a big night as is nearby Cyrano en Ville, a hangout dedicated to the Apertivo with an Italian inspired menu. A minute’s walk along Papadiamantopoulou Street, Tromero Paidi has built a reputation as one of the best bakeries in the area, with shoppers from all over Athens making the pilgrimage for sourdough made from traditional flours milled in Karditsa, and buttery, French-inspired pastries.

Of course, on a square named after Brazil, there had to be a South American connection, and recent arrival Iguazu provides the link. In a jungle themed interior, exotic Latin ingredients combine on a menu with bold, fresh and unexpected flavours; think Brazilian Sushi, Argentinian Steaks and poke bowls brimming with healthy seafood.

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Photo: Mouries/Facebook
Photo: Baba Ganoush/Facebook

Plateia Varnava

Close to the Panathenaic Stadium, Plateia Varnava is a popular meeting spot in the hip Pangrati district. Uphill from the Goulandris Museum and its excellent collection of contemporary art, Varnava Square brims with life; kids climb trees and trade football stickers, old men play backgammon, and youngsters flirt and drink cans of beer from the kiosk. Mouries is a local institution, one of the best traditional tavernas in town, with terrific homemade food and blissfully untroubled by tourists. Clever diners visit the fine Papoulias Butcher Shop on route to stock up on excellent meats from small producers, beautifully presented. For anniversaries, special events or just for a memorable meal, Spondi has been wooing diners for years with its Michelin-starred cuisine. A beautiful courtyard amid unassuming apartment buildings, the restaurant is full of surprises with a playful and inventive take on fine dining allied to gracious and friendly service – an Athens classic.

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Photo: Spondi/Facebook
Photo: Spondi/Facebook

For far less formal food options, patrons head to nearby Baba Ganoush for middle east-inspired vegetarian and vegan food, Mimis for a modern take on the traditional souvlaki joint, or gorge on the fully loaded crepes and waffles at Mr Crepito.

The pick of the bars that surround the central island of the square is Superfly, a local favourite with a retro interior that harks back to the 1980’s with video game consoles, posters and toys from the past. A great soundtrack accompanies friendly service and the outside tables are perfect for watching the ever-changing tableau that is Plateia Varnava.

Read also:

Zephyros: A Century of Stars Under the Athenian Sky

A Guide to the Acropolis, the Sacred Rock of Athens

The Agora of Athens: The Heartbeat of Classical Greece