Kardamyli and Stoupa are perhaps the two most emblematic villages of Western or Outer Mani, as the locals call it. Few are those who have never heard of them. However, many do not know that three jewels lie between them, in the 7-kilometre stretch that separates them. Three beaches that have been attracting more and more visitors over the years.
Just one kilometre from Kardamyli, we find Kalamitsi, a beach that breaks away from the solid stone of Mani, and is somewhat “hybrid” between Mani and the Cyclades, with large, round pebbles shaped by time, and sandy parts suitable for children.
Kalamitsi became more known when the famous English travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor decided to settle there in the later years of his life. A philhellene who played a significant role in Crete’s Resistance during the German occupation, and overall a fascinating personality, he put this area on the map through his writings. At Kalamitsi today you won’t find sunbeds and umbrellas, but can instead enjoy a pristine, ultra-clean beach, surrounded by greenery – but without shade.
Heading south, a few kilometres further on, we find the beach that has become a symbol of summer for the residents of Kalamata for decades, despite the nearly one-hour drive required to get there. As terrifying as its name sounds, Foneas (murderer) beach or Foneas gorge is very enticing to behold. It’s true that it’s not easy to see if no one has told you about it, despite being just 200 metres from the main road and an existing sign for it.
The somewhat coarse pebbles underfoot are rough, but not enough to deter one from traversing its terrain, even barefoot. A monumental rock cleaves the beach (at sea) into two distinct parts. The beach shack, a lovely little oasis, sits here. Conveniently, there’s a lavatory, and a dedicated effort to maintain the cleanliness of the beach is evident. Parking spots are also available, if you’re fortunate enough to arrive relatively early. Undoubtedly, the beach retains a distinctive Mani Peninsula charm.
Pressing onward towards Stoupa, another hidden jewel reveals itself – Delfinia beach. Shielded from view, it welcomes discerning beachgoers with its perpetually calm and crystal-clear waters. Time and the sea have shaped its pebbles, a reminder of the Mani Peninsula’s raw allure.
At Delfinia, one does not have to limit themselves to the splendid beach before them; a brief swim northward of the beach reveals the cave of Polyora. Here you’ll find a small sandy beach with an alluring backdrop of stalactites, and a beach shack situated just above the shore. Visitors can indulge in everything from a refreshing beverage to a snack, or even an ouzo with its accompanying meze. It’s the ideal place to take respite from the blazing sun or to conclude a day at sea, replenishing lost fluids and calories.
These three beaches, while situated a stone’s throw away from each other, are surprisingly distinct. Perhaps their only commonality lies in their preserved authenticity and the rugged character of the Mani Peninsula.
Read also:
Kokkala, an Off-Beat Destination with Gorgeous Beaches
Haria: A Rustic Charming Lowkey Settlement in Mani
