Tilos sits quietly between Nisyros and Halki, a compact Dodecanese gem that still moves at the leisurely tempo of summers past. Days unspool on unserviced beaches where the only soundtrack is cicadas and the soft rustle of a paperback—or the scratch of a crossword pencil—rather than the clatter of cocktail shakers and jet-ski engines.
Long before “sustainable” became a travel-site keyword, Tilos wired itself for the future: a pioneering hybrid system supplies the island with 100 percent wind- and solar-generated power, making it the Mediterranean’s first fully energy-independent destination. The same respect for the land extends to its flora; Tilos and the islets sprinkled around it form a Natura 2000 sanctuary, sheltering more than 150 rare or endemic plant species.
Come for what the island lacks – traffic, crowds, neon – and stay for what it offers in abundance: footpaths that thread through sage-scented hills, pebble coves you may have to yourself, and tavernas where the day’s catch is announced, not marketed. If your idea of escape is measured in pages read rather than miles logged on a speedboat, book the slow boat to Tilos.
The Villages
The capital of Tilos, known as Chora, is Megalo Chorio, located in the interior of the island. Particularly picturesque, it is quite reminiscent of the Cycladic villages with its white houses and bougainvilleas. Its alleys are a small labyrinth, while the courtyards of some churches are paved with beautiful pebbles.
A little further up, on the slope of the mountain that rises behind the village, there is a medieval castle, built by the Knights of St. John on the site of the island’s ancient acropolis. There you can still see the water tanks, the ruins of the city, and the half-ruined church of Agios Taxiarchis.
The most organized settlement on the island is Livadia, the island’s port, where you will find more accommodation options and many taverns to sample the local delicacies. There are also two smaller settlements, Eristos and Agios Antonios, which are ideal for those seeking greater seclusion.
The Beaches
Tilos has wonderful beaches for you to enjoy your summer swims. Livadia, located in the island’s port, is a long pebble beach next to the village, with a few tamarisk trees for shade, as well as umbrellas and sunbeds.
Further up, Letra beach is accessible via a footpath. It is not organized, so you will need to take care of all your needs, including shade. The pebbly ground, both in and out of the water, can be a little difficult, but tranquility is almost guaranteed.
To the west, Agios Antonios beach is not very large, but it offers wonderful sunsets and easy access. A little further south, Plaka beach is larger, with amazing waters and a pebbly shore.
To the south, Eristos beach is wide, with sand mixed with pebbles and beautiful tamarisk trees behind it. Agios Sergios beach also requires a walk to reach, but offers beautiful and somewhat wild scenery. Despotiko Nero beach is also accessible with some effort, but it is worth it to dive into its clear waters. Finally, Agios Zacharias beach offers seclusion and beautiful waters.
The Walks
In addition to the medieval castle in Megalo Chorio on Tilos, you will find another one, which you will look for between Messaria, Megalo Chorio, and Livadia on a hill with a beautiful view. In Messaria, there is also the Charkadio Cave, where a cemetery of dwarf elephants was discovered.
The findings are exhibited in a small Paleontology Museum. However, the cave itself is not open to visitors. In Megalo Chorio, you will also find the island’s Archaeological Museum, while it is also worth visiting Mikro Chorio, a 15th-century settlement that was abandoned after World War II and is now in ruins.
The chapels of Tilos are also small, beautiful stops, while the 15th-century Byzantine monastery of Agios Panteleimon is one of those places that should be on your list. If you visit it in the late afternoon, you will be able to admire a magnificent sunset as it is located on the west side of the island.
The island also has a large network of trails for its size, so if you enjoy hiking, prepare yourself accordingly and explore the Tilos countryside. For extra trips, rent a boat to explore its islets, Gaidaros to the north, and the long Antitilo to the southeast.
The Food
Gorgona
Located on the top floor of a building overlooking the sea, it offers magnificent views and serves mainly seafood dishes.
Livadia
Armenon Seaside Restaurant
On Livadia beach, overlooking the sea, it has a menu that will satisfy both fish and meat lovers.
Livadia
Filoxenia
Located on the coastal road, it also has a sea view and a menu.
Livadia
Almyriki
A cute little tavern also on the seafront, serving Greek cuisine such as goat stew with noodles, moussaka, etc.
Livadia
Palió Meraki Café-Ouzeri
A small tavern with a simple menu offering a variety of meze dishes.
Megalo Chorio
To Delfini
A stone’s throw from the sea, serving home-cooked meals, fresh fish, and meat dishes.
Agios Antonios
