Imagine, if you will, being right there on the island, absorbing that view, the taste of the salty air, the light-headedness from sipping ouzo, feeling the pebbles beneath your feet, the sea urchins, the beaches, and the starry nights. Thankfully, so that you don’t have to wait until next summer arrives, there are eight spots in Athens that can satiate your longing for that island ambience and carefree spirit, primarily by offering the culinary counterbalance to our island nostalgia. Here, we can savour authentic tastes from Lesvos, Chios, Kasos, Karpathos, and Crete. We can sip drinks that instantly transport us to our favourite sunsets, with damp hair and sparkling eyes, keeping winter at bay on some level.
Lesvos
An old piano, a jukebox, and a mosaic floor set the stage for the simple, yet intense, meze showdown that has been playing out on Emmanouil Benaki street since 1970. Lesvos focuses on pastes and marinades, traditional recipes, and fresh fish and seafood prepared in all culinary manners. Light, golden frying, delightful dips, fresh bread daily, and of course, the distinct Mytilene ouzo, make this ouzeri a must-visit, and it’s always wise to ring ahead and reserve a table.
Address: Emmanouil Benaki 38, Exarcheia, Phone: +30 210 3814525
Lesvion
In Galatsi, there’s an ouzeri by the name of Lesvion, a delightful little spot frequented by loyal regulars. They serve cheeses from Mesotopo and Agra, traditional skipjack tuna (‘lakerda’), sushi-like Kalloni sardines, small, crisp pan-fried fish and, of course, charcoal-grilled octopus. These are just some of the standout choices from their concise yet comprehensive menu. Everything is cooked and seasoned with oils from Mytilene, paired with a selection of ouzo and tsipouro. Patrons also opt for the local house wine, the Moschato of Alexandria.
Address: Vardousion 3, Galatsi, Phone: +30 210 2923689
Peinaleon
High up on Mavromichali in the Neapoli district of Exarcheia, Peinaleon resonates to the flavoursome beats of rebetiko. This is one of Athens’ hidden treasures. Dishes inspired by Chios, made with passion and homely touches, such as pork with mastic or the ‘hunkiar beyendi’, which journeyed from Turkey to the Aegean coasts and nearby islands, are paired with stuffed grape leaves (‘dolmades’), fresh salads bursting with aromatic herbs, and top-shelf spirits, bottled or straight from the barrel. On Wednesdays, live music at Peinaleon is performed unplugged, harmonising perfectly with the gastronomic experience, filled with memories and influences from the fragrant Chios.
Address: Mavromichali 152, Phone: +30 210 64409450
Rakoumel
Heading down the same street bustling with activity, Emmanouil Benaki, you’ll discover the Cretan taverna Rakoumel. They serve authentic, utterly delicious, and generous dishes that transport you to Crete: fennel pie with fresh herbs, small mizithra cheese pies, courgette flowers with rice, potatoes with staka, omelette with sygklino, xigalo cheese from Siteia, pork fry-up with honey, skioufichta pasta with sausage, aubergine and ‘stakovoutyro’, among other equally tantalising options. All of these pair excellently with the organic rakomelo (raki, cooked with honey and spices) from Toplou Monastery and Rethymnian beer.
Address: Emmanouil Benaki 71, Phone: +30 210 3800506
Mito
In Kallithea, a sip of Crete and a touch of Amorgos awaits. At Mito, the welcome, not to mention the entire culinary journey, is authentically Cretan, specifically from Rethymno. In this hospitable coffeehouse, raki arrives partnered with seasonal mezes: apaki, baby artichokes, olives. We taste pork from free-grazing animals that feast exclusively on acorns; it’s intensely aromatic and tantalisingly juicy, presented with admirable simplicity. As we eat, the watchful gazes of Xylouris and Venizelos from their portraits supervise, as the raw, almost primal beauty of Cretan cuisine graces our table: warm chicory with green, unripe olive oil, bitter snails, divine cheeses, chickpea avgolemono, roasted lamb heads for the adventurous. By morning, they serve coffee, reflecting its true roots as a traditional, age-old coffeehouse, complete with a familiar ambience: backgammon, television, and worry beads.
Address: Aristeidou 62, Kallithea, Phone: +30 210 9510134
Amorgiano Perasma
We sip on roasted, sweet raki sprinkled with cinnamon, building anticipation for the tantalising meze dishes to come: Amorgos cheese pies with honey and sesame, tomato keftedes, apaki (cured meat dish) with rusks and tomato, and notably, a delectably hearty meat pie. The monastery of Chozoviótissa in Amorgos is the origin of the raki recipe that has given this place its reputation. Behind the meze joint, there’s also a bar, emanating similar Amorgos vibes, but without the array of mezes.
Address: Sivitanidou 51, Kallithea, Phone: +30 210 9592080
Akri
In Piraeus, the essence of Kasos is palpable. Here, Kasos flaunts its unique culinary prowess and even owns its dedicated spot named after the Agia Marina neighbourhood on the island. Its kitchen crafts magic from humble ingredients, paired with a captivating backstory. At Akri, we indulge in delectably tiny dolmadakia and makarounes pasta paired with sitaka (a cheese from Kasos), a dish that beckons us time and time again. The view of the sea coupled with the surrounding blue-and-white setting instantly transports us straight to the Aegean.
Address: Akti Themistokleous 298, Piraeus, Phone: +30 210 4180110
Kastello
This café on Koumoundourou Street has long been the gathering spot for Karpathians who ventured away from their homeland to Athens. These days, however, it attracts a new crowd. Youngsters with an appetite for traditional music and seasoned regulars with a penchant for honest, uncomplicated mezes. The café has gracefully transitioned to the nephew of the original three brothers from Karpathos who inaugurated it. He ensures the place retains its undisturbed character. Most of what you taste here has journeyed by boat directly from Karpathos: gyalohorto (a local green), thin bread rings, capers, fresh squill, rice-stuffed grape leaves, macaroni, and of course, their potent raki. The establishment operates from 8 in the morning until 11 at night. But be prepared: some evenings transform into spontaneous revelries filled with the sounds of lutes and bagpipes echoing through the streets. It’s an experience not to be missed
Address: Evripidou 88, Koumoundourou Square, Phone: +30 210 3212789.
