One special characteristic of Crete, perhaps not so commonly discussed, is the island’s tradition in the construction and use of wood-fired ovens. In the past, such ovens represented a key aspect of every household, while communal wood-fired ovens also existed, serving as informal meeting points for locals. This is one of the reasons why Crete’s wood-fired ovens are bigger in size compared to others around the country.

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Taking this aspect of the island’s culinary history as a pretext, look for wood-fired oven bakeries and definitely try their products. A traditional bakery run by Stefanos Alexandrakis at a prime position in the centre of Rethymno’s old town, on Tsagri st, a thoroughfare with a continual flow of locals and tourists, is recommended. Address details are probably needless for locating this bakery as the tantalising aroma of its produce permeates all over the block.

Stefanos Alexandrakis arrives at his bakery at three in the morning, every day. He prepares the oven fire and begins kneading and baking products so that his handmade produce can be ready to be served from 8am onwards. His rusks with olive oil, handmade cheese pies, twisted bread buns with cheese and bacon, small tsoureki (fluffy brioche-type bread) buns filled with chocolate, apple, vanilla cream or myzithra cheese, and, naturally, the bread loaves – seven variations made with flour and durum wheat – are all top sellers among the wider range.

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“I recall, from when I was a child, being at the bakery all day»
Photo: Nikos Kokkas

Besides offering products that are clearly far richer in taste, wood-fired ovens are also efficient as they swiftly reach high temperatures needed to bake.Asked how his involvement with the wood-fired oven bakery began, Stefanos Alexandrakis, with a beaming, warm-hearted smile, noted: “I recall, from when I was a child, being at the bakery all day long and observing my parents create for endless hours, always with a passion and interest, without any resentment. I basically grew up in here. When I graduated from a baking and confectionary school, I decided that I wanted to take on the business and am grateful for having done this, six years ago, because I cannot imagine my life any other way. The first thing I did as soon as I took over was visit the archaeological service as I had heard various stories about our bakery, and, sure enough, they estimated it was established around 1800. It seemed unbelievable to me.”

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Stefanos Alexandrakis
Photo: Nikos Kokkas

This is not the only interesting story associated with this bakery. During the Nazi occupation of Crete in World War II, Nazi German forces bombed the bakery after seeing billowing smoke from above and mistakenly presuming the facility was some sort of local factory. The bomb just missed its target, landing to the side of the bakery, and through sheer luck, never exploded. However, a war-related hole high up on the wall, opposite the entrance, is still visible. It was a close call for the bakery, still carrying on.

Stefanos Alexandrakis declares being an advocate for wood-fired oven usage by bakeries. This passion was immediately sensed as soon as we arrived.