Historic monument exudes serenity, extending an open embrace to the sea

8

The Mavromichalis clan of influential pre-Greek Independence fighters as well as a Prime Minister in the early 20th century, has been closely linked with the history of the Mani peninsula in southern Peloponnese, and more so with the Limeni, the small port village of nearby Areopolis. The main street of this port village, which, in terms of tourism development, has developed in a very balanced fashion over the past 15 years, is dominated by the Mavromichalis Tower, an impressive fortified tower mansion that was transformed into a tasteful boutique hotel in 2011.

As the heavy wooden door was swung open, we were greeted with generosity and grace by Theodosis Mavromichalis, a descendant of the Mavromichalis family, at the light-filled courtyard. Naturally, we enquired about his connection to the family past. “My mother is a member of the Mavromichalis clan, from the Ioannis Mavromichalis family, also known as Katsis, a brother of Petrobeis Mavromichalis [prominent Greek Independence struggle leader]. Because of his brother’s continual obligations beyond Mani, Ioannis Mavromichalis emerged as a regional leader after proving formidable in key battles – sieges of Methoni and Koroni castles; battles of Valtetsi, Verga, Diros and Polyaravos; as well as the siege and fall of Monemvasia,” Theodosis Mavromichalis explained. “His most significant achievement, however, was that he managed to maintain cohesion within Mani’s administrative and military ranks,” he added.

The first section of the tower mansion was built in the late 1600s and the second in 1820, while further additions followed over the years as the family grew, all the way to the facility’s present form as a beautifully restored boutique hotel, with utmost respect for the past intact. Surrounded by land at its back end, by the mountain, this historic fortified tower mansion exudes serenity, its front extending an open embrace to the sea. Heading down the steps, guests have direct access to the transparent turquoise waters for a swim before heading back up to settle into comfortable sun loungers for sunbathing out on the patio.

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The food at Mavromichalis Tower is based on organic produce supplied by small-scale producers in the region, as well as fish and meat from local fishermen and livestock farmers. The place produces its own makarounes (pasta) at its workshop. Its wines, carefully chosen, hail from Greek wineries, while the menu is curated by Dimitris Dimitriadis, one of the leading chefs of his generation with numerous distinctions. Definitely enjoy a meal here if visiting Limeni. Table reservations are needed.

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Before leaving, we had a chat with Mrs. Niki Mavromichali, who was born and raised at the tower mansion, then spent the biggest part of her life in Germany, before returning to Limeni in more recent years to support her son’s boutique hotel venture. “I believe that roots attract. Something like the attraction felt by elephants returning to their birthplace before they die,” Mrs. Niki Mavromichali told us, disarmingly. Even so, she remains lively and engaged in the running of the business.

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Mrs. Niki Mavromichali spoke enthusiastically about the building’s revival and its acceptance by the public, as highlighted by repeat customers travelling from the UK, USA and Australia, the facility’s main markets.

She made special mention of guests from Austria, who return each year and clean the cobbled path linking Limeni with Areopolis, the nearby town. “They leave their tools here each year, feeling certain they will be back. One member of this group, Peter Mayr, has become so attached to our area that he has published deluxe coffee-table books with lovely texts and photographs!”