The largest of the Small Cyclades has all the features of a small island with a central settlement, where everything is easily accessible and in one place, but also is big enough to explore for a few days. In the port, Stavros, you can find lodging, taverns and cafés, while the road takes you to Mersini and Panagia Kalotaritissa. There’s only one road on the island and beware, there’s no gas station on the island, so if you’re taking a vehicle, make sure to fill up on gas before you board the ship.
Panagia Kalotaritissa
The one and only road on the island stops here at the settlement of Panagia Kalotaritissa, about 10 kilometres from Stavros, the port of Donoussa. There’s a handful of houses spread around the area, two really nice beaches and one family tavern. The beach of the same name is sandy and has crystal clear waters, while if you’re in the mood to walk for 10 minutes you can go to the beach of Tripiti, which has white sand and green-blue waters and is protected from the northern winds. None of the beaches offers amenities like umbrellas or sunbeds, but you can find traditional homemade food at Mitsos taverna at the settlement. At this scenic taverna you can taste the traditional dish of Donoussa, ‘patatato’ (lamb stew in tomato sauce with potatoes).
Info: Mitsos, Panagia Kalotaritissa, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 22850 51522
Swimming and lunch at Livadi
Probably the best beach in Donoussa, exotic, with blue-green waters and fine white sand. Nudists also come here, while at the back of the beach there are free campers. Access to the beach is not easy but it’s worth following the path from Mersini village. At around the middle of the trail you’ll find a spring with fresh potable water. It takes around 20 minutes to get to the beach. Alternatively, you can catch a boat from Stavros, it stops at Kedros and Livadi and goes up to Fokospilia, a nice cave with blue waters on the West side of the island. After your swim, go to Mersini to eat at one of the two taverns there that both serve exceptional food. Try the lemon goat roast at ‘Tzi Tzi” and the beef aubergine casserole and the smoked steak at “I kori tou Mihali”.
Info: Tzi Tzi, Mersini, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 6973 207569, I kori tou Mihali, Mersini, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 6984 618807
Kedros beach
It’s the beach closest to the port and one of the most beautiful ones on Donousa. The fine white sand and the deep green-blue waters make it feature on the lists with the best beaches in Greece often. You’ll get there on a path from Stavros or with a vehicle on the road and then a bit of walking. It’s ideal for diving with a mask as there are remains of a German shipwreck on the seabed, a souvenir from the Second World War. On the beach there is the “Kedros” café-restaurant that offers shade, coffee, and food made with ingredients from the owners’ vegetable garden.
Info: Kedros, Kedros beach, Donoussa Tel. 0030 6977 991862
Coffee and mezze in Stavros
The coffee shop “Kima”, in Stavros, appears to have come out of a Greek 60’s film. It’s strategically situated right where the boats moor, and has been working without stop since 1948, operating as a coffee shop, a tavern and a mini market. It opens at 7 in the morning and closes late at night. Go there for your morning coffee or your dinner, they prepare a few dishes but all of them good, including meatballs, patatato, pastitsio (baked pasta and minced meat dish) and whatever else the cook has made that day. In Stavros you can also find good mezze places, like “Simadoura” and “Captain Giorgos”
Info: To Kima, Stavros, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 22850 51566, Simadoura, Stavros, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 6948 141466, Captain Giorgos, Stavros, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 22850 51867
Value for money rooms
Donoussa doesn’t have luxury accommodation nor does it have large hotel units. The island offers a few, orderly, accommodation choices, comfortable and inexpensive. The guesthouse “Argalios” is one of the best, simple and traditionally decorated. The “Makares Apartments” offer stand-alone, self-contained apartments with a veranda with a view and every amenity you’ll need, as do the “Stenosa” studios, while “Althea”, “Iliovasilema” and “Firoa” are good inexpensive accommodation options.
Info: Argalios Guesthouse, Stavros, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 22850 79008, www.argaliosguesthouse.gr, Makares, Stavros, Donousa, Tel. 0030 22850 79079, www.makares-donoussa.gr, Stenosa, Stavros, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 6977 212370, www.stenosa.gr, Althea, Stavros, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 22850 79029, www.altheastudios.com, Iliovasilema, Stavros, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 22850 51570, www.iliovasilema-studios.gr, Firoa, Stavros, Donoussa, Tel. 0030 22850 51719, www.firoa-studios.gr
