My heart was unhindered by the weather, as I stepped off the boat on Hydra’s harbour on a mid-May afternoon under a sky thick with ominous clouds. My face splashed by fat raindrops, I rejoiced at having returned. This island is where a laid-back, traditionally authentic and unassuming ambience and a glamorous and creative vibe seamlessly merge in a way I haven’t experienced anywhere else. I was greeted by my dear friend, who had flown all the way from Australia to celebrate her birthday at her beloved Greek getaway with several others also coming to toast their beloved pal from across the globe, and we quickly proceeded to do exactly as I’d fantasised, sitting at Isalos cafe-bar to sip an Aperol spritz.
Before proceeding to relish a long-overdue catch-up, I had to get my luggage to the house where we would be staying, which was a steep 10-minute walk up the island’s characteristic long, cobblestone steps, so I handed it to one of the car-free island’s ‘donkey-taxi’ men, who flung it onto his long-eyelashed mule’s back and clipetty clopped away.
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This gathering was going to be very special because it would combine a celebration of friendship with a stay at The Oikonomou House, an initiative combining hospitality at a remarkable 18th-century mansion with yoga and art classes.
After Angelika Lialios Freitag lost her husband George Lialios, with whom she spent many wondrous summers at their Hydra home from the 1960s to the late 1990s, she and her two daughters, Skyrah and Kai decided to share the singular experience of living there with occasional guests. An actress with a blossoming international career who fell in love with yoga and trained to become a teacher, Skyrah Archer envisioned that her beloved home could double as a retreat centre.
Skyrah and her author sister Katharina, who goes by the nom de plume Kai Knight, have also written the book ‘Blue Out’ (by Miranda Storm, sold at Lexikopoleio Bookstore and on Amazon), and the idea of bringing creative writing workshops to the retreat is also in the works. Indeed, this autumn, author David Young will be offering a one-week retreat on novel-writing.
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Several renovations and plenty of reorganising later, Artemis Retreats was born in 2022. “Hydra is an island in which you have to walk everywhere, which means you have direct contact with its every corner,” Skyrah says. “It’s an island of pure quiet and together with yoga and art, which bring you back to yourself, the overall experience is very re-centring”.
After a delicious Greek dinner at Piato taverna at the harbour, where all the walls are covered in plates painted by customers, including creative artworks by several A-list celebs, we trekked up to the house under the bright stars that city dwellers sadly disremember. Upon entering the dimly lit space I was astounded by its dimensions, imposing mystical ambience and rustic, archaic beauty. As I looked upon the deep, high-ceilinged living room, on one side of which is a four-metre-long fireplace and on the other a cistern from the 1700s, I imagined it in the same low lighting, filled with Angelika and George’s friends talking animatedly and sipping wine into the late hours, filling it with their colour.
They were the generation that Hydra is most known for until today, a society of artists and poets, musicians, barefoot aristocrats and restless world wanderers, a special blend of foreigners and Greeks who found their home in each other and in the island. “For me, creating Artemis Retreats is a way of continuing my parents’ legacy of bringing people together in this space, and creating a meeting place for creative people,” Skyrah says.
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The small Saronic island, with its laddered rocky shores and intact 18th-century architecture, meandering cobblestone streets draped in fragrant jasmine and fuschia bougainvillaea and gently wafting of donkey manure, with random blasts of greenery and ever-changing blue hues, has served, and continues to inspire, as an idyllic backdrop for the creation of prolific art, fathomless conversations and sacred friendships.
The presence of Leonard Cohen, the figurehead of the island’s creative golden years and an Aslan of the arts, is still alive and kicking today. His name is oft repeated with fondness and awe by people of all generations, and Hydra serves almost as the shrine to his memory. His absence from the island almost creates an ache in the soul, a sense that the magnetism of the island would be yet more intense if he were still physically there.
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The Oikonomou House transported us to a different dimension, combining the past, present and future vision of Hyda through the effusive nature of our warm and gracious hosts. The five guestrooms are spacious and minimal, with comfortable double beds, marble floors, tasteful antique furnishings and striking decor pieces. Yoga is held in the ballroom, a large room with mat-covered floors, a gilded gold-framed floor mirror, and a sculpted wooden ceiling. Upstairs there is also the library, lined with books collected by the family and decorated with paintings, objects d’art and furnishings. It leads to the large terrace where we enjoyed ample breakfasts of local products and pastries, overlooking an arresting view of the sea, the Peloponnesian mountains, and the main town below, crowded with white houses with red ceramic-tiled roofs.
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We passed our days with a morning yoga practice, lively breakfast banter, walks down to the harbour for coffee and cat-patting at To Roloi, invigorating dives off colossal rocks into fresh, blue-green waters, dreamy glow-time dinner experiences at restaurants with astonishing views of the natural landscape and Hydra town, such as Veranda and Sunset Restaurant and delicious cocktails plus people-watching at the Pirate Bar, which has its own interesting origin story: in the 1970s, it was an antique shop owned by Bill Cunliffe, who offered visiting friends a drink so regularly that he ended turning it into a bar.
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During our visit, we had the pleasure to see a retrospective exhibition of Angelika’s artworks, titled ‘Reflections of Change’ hosted at the Historical Archives Museum of Hydra. The collection includes evocative paintings of flowers and gardens, scenes from Hydra and original drawings inspired by Greece. Angelika, who also creates unique collages, sculptures and sketches, offered us an art class at Artemis Retreats, during which we received the valuable lesson that creating an artwork doesn’t rely on having mathematical precision or inherent skills, but chiefly on developing confidence in your personal viewpoint and then letting your creative expression roam wild.
And again, I cherished not only being on Hydra in the present with these dynamic and talented women, my old and new friends and many welcoming local folks I met along the way but also reliving a town so exquisitely scenic it has served as the mise en scene for several great films (like the classics ‘Boy On a Dolphin with Sophia Loren, ‘Phaedra’ with Melina Mercouri and Anthony Perkins, numerous old Greek movies, Nick Broomfield’s documentary ‘Mariane and Leonard, Words of Love’ and the upcoming TV series ‘So Long, Marianne’, about the life of Leonard Cohen, that was being shot around the island).
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Above all, I am comforted by the fact that Hydra, a place full of possibilities – from horseback riding and hiking to cooking classes and exciting art happenings, as well as numerous wonderful locations beyond its main town that I have yet to explore, can be reached in just two hours from Piraeus port. I stepped onto my boat home with a happy heart, recalling Cohen’s lyrics: “But let’s not talk of love or chains and things we can’t untie, Your eyes are soft with sorrow, Hey, that’s no way to say goodbye.”
Read also:
The best memories of Hydra are the parties on roof terraces
24 hours on Hydra, the Charm of Greece’s Saronic Gulf
No cars, picturesque streets and impressive mansions on a beautiful Greek island
