There is regular seismic activity in Greece, which is well known and a bit disturbing, but it is precisely this volcanic terrain that has provided us, apart from several tremors, with an abundance of mineral and thermal springs throughout the country.

16

Known for their beneficial properties since antiquity, they have become a tourist development pole, putting Greece on the map of wellness tourism. About 750 are counted, of which about 180 have been more or less tapped to date. Depending on the chemical composition of their waters and their temperature, the springs are differentiated and categorised according to their therapeutic properties regarding a wide variety of diseases. My path has taken me to four of them.

Agistro Thermal Baths, Serres

Near the Promahonas crossing, on the border with Bulgaria, a sign points to the right to the thermal baths of Agistro. Also known as Hammam, this Byzantine bath dates back to 950 AD and, if one isolates it from its neighbouring modern buildings, it seems to stand alone, untouched over the centuries. The Ottoman elements added by the Turkish conquerors are evident and it is precisely this cultural fusion that makes this building so charming. The water rushes with force and roar on tired backs, the 37-39 °C water vapour (the spring’s temperature) blurs the view, and the scant light that enters during the day from the dome’s small skylights renders the overall atmosphere and sensation completely relaxing and somewhat mystical. Closing my eyes, I try to concentrate only on the sound of the water bursting around me, temporarily losing track of time. The sweet numbness I begin to feel in the back of my neck betrays the work being done.

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Agistro Hammam/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Agistro Hammam/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas

Time to get out though, to concede the wet room to the next ones patiently waiting their turn. The village of Agistro has almost eliminated unemployment, as its residents have invested in hospitality and catering based on the precious gift of the thermal springs. Next to the original building, new tanks have been added, elegant and well-kept, to accommodate those who do not find the Byzantine building free during the year, throughout the 24-hour operation of the baths. A midnight visit is a wonderful experience.

www.hammamagistro.gr

Sidirokastro Thermal Springs

Very close to the small town of Sidirokastro, just seven kilometres from the Bulgarian border, in the settlement of Loutra, on a hill with a panoramic view of the plain of Serres, Struma River and Mount Belles, are the thermal baths of Sidirokastro. At a random midday hour on a weekday, outside the renovated building of the hydrotherapy centre a wonderful silence reigns. It features three temperature-controlled group whirlpools and air-massage pools as well as 15 modern individual whirlpool tubs. But the traffic by the time I arrive is minimal, so I’m lucky enough to enjoy the big tank without waiting. With a temperature close to 44 °C, the waters of this particular spring are among the warmest and, as a result, the kind lady at reception urges me, if I am not used to it, to open the large window of the room to at least reduce water vapour. I followed her advice to the letter, as the sensation of the extremely hot water on my skin confirmed her warning. Even with the window open, the temperature does not drop below 32 degrees.

The composition and temperature of the water is ideal for the treatment of muscle pains, various forms of arthritis, tendonitis, gynaecological diseases and cervical pains. On my way to the car, with a super-slow gait, I observe the area around the hydrotherapy buildings. I remember it densely pine-clad until the big fire of September 2017, when, according to the fire brigade’s conclusion, a blocked train wheel from the adjacent tracks created a spark causing the total destruction of the forest, endangering part of the building infrastructure of the baths.

www.spa.gr

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Pozar Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Pozar Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas

Pozar Thermal Baths of Almopia

Even the best photographs cannot adequately capture what visitors see and experience here. In the municipality of Almopia Aridaia, the Loutraki or Pozar (from the Slavic name meaning fire or heat) thermal springs are gushing out, creating an unspeakably beautiful environment. A wonderful spa town, lively, with hydrotherapy facilities scattered in a landscape of indescribable beauty. Here you will find enclosed areas with elegant private swimming pools, Turkish baths, beauty and wellness centres, tourist kiosks selling traditional products and even a folklore museum. Thirteen kilometres from the small town of Aridaia, 110 kilometres from Thessaloniki, of which the last kilometres before arrival along a beautiful route that foreshadows and intensifies the impatience of arrival, Loutra Pozar belongs to every traveller’s bucket list.

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Pozar Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Pozar Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas

But nothing can compare to the waterfalls and outdoor natural pools in an environment of fantasy and colour. Visitors seem to enjoy it like a bunch of happy children discovering something they didn’t know existed. Until today. I leave my towel on the railing, next to the bathrobes and towels of fellow bathers, arrange my flip-flops next to other pairs, like a Far Eastern ritual, and slowly descend the stone steps to the milky-blue water of the warm outdoor pool.

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Pozar Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Pozar Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas

Orange plantain leaves, scattered in and out of the water, simply accentuate the colourful canvas. I sink to my chin at 37°C, waiting patiently for my turn to stand under the flow of the waterfall, to feel the weight of the water as it falls on me. The difference in water and atmospheric temperature is hard on the skin, making contact with nature even more exciting. Some daredevils cross the boundary of the warm natural pool and stand under the icy waters of the normal flow, right next to the thermal one. Like flower children we all enjoy this natural wonder, voraciously, almost conspiratorially. Pozar Thermal Baths joined the European Route of Historic Thermal Towns network in 2015. They are open all year round.

www.loutrapozar.com.gr

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Smokovo Thermal Baths/ Photo:Nikos Kokkas
Smokovo Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas

Smokovo Thermal Baths

At a distance of 35 km from Karditsa, known for their healing properties since the 17th century, the springs of Smokovo are almost hidden in the green hills. It is one of the largest hydrotherapy centres in Greece, with waters gushing at 42 ºC, particularly warm but also miraculously therapeutic for numerous respiratory, digestive, rheumatic, gynaecological and dermatological diseases.

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Smokovo Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Smokovo Thermal Baths/ Photo: Nikos Kokkas

Within a magnificent, elongated building, large individual hot tubs, steam rooms, a fully equipped gym, massage rooms, nose wash and individual breathing facilities, as well as the tall and bright pool hall, like a therapeutic temple built among the tall trees for every faithful pilgrim of wellness, are housed with order and care. Even the Ali Pasha of Ioannina used to frequent here. Open certainly from Friday to Sunday, but also on bank and public holidays. For the other days in winter, prior contact is highly recommended. Diving in the pool is forbidden.

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