Leaving the scenic Marpissa, a small, semi-mountainous village in Paros that has been receiving more and more tourist traffic in recent years, we follow a wonderful, wide, paved road, “hidden” among towering trees that ends right in front of the sea.
For those who visit Paros often, the beginning of this road is a sign that soon they will see Piso Livadi stretching out in front of them, all white, with boats moored in the middle of a blue bay and cute restaurants and cafés standing side by side on the seafront. Upon reaching the lilliputian settlement, turn right and continue along the winding road, with the sea on your left. Soon you’ll see the small, municipal village car park, where most visitors leave their cars, however, the island’s rapid growth has made finding a space even here a fairly difficult task at all hours of the day.
In the mornings, you’ll see families with small children playing on the soft sand, at the calm, sheltered from wind, and extremely shallow bay east of the village, while there are usually many swimmers in the clear waters, despite the fact that the marina in Piso Livadi has always been a mooring spot for impressive ribs and quite large yachts bringing travellers from all over the Cyclades to the island.
From midday onwards, however, the village takes on a whole new life since a few of the restaurants on the beautiful, seafront promenade on the west side are a true must in terms of the island’s gastronomy and, so, attract dozens of visitors every day. At the end of the promenade, a slightly elevated café awaits, where you can have a coffee, a quick snack, or a drink while enjoying breath-taking views. Captain Yiannis, right on the spot where the small boats for the Cyclades islands leave, stands on the large rocks and appears to be floating in the water, like a ship ready to depart. An insiders tip: go up to the toilets, on the second floor, and look through the round porthole, for a truly breath-taking picture-perfect sight.
Don’t limit yourself to a short seaside stroll past the bright shops selling stylish souvenirs when in Piso Livadi, make sure you explore the village’s uphill streets, that comprise an idyllic Cycladic setting. The view of the sea behind turquoise patio doors and over low white walls, is truly breath-taking. There might not be many restaurants and cafés here, but you’ll certainly enjoy this more authentic part of this lesser known, but still cosmopolitan settlement of Paros.
As the day progresses and the sun goes down behind the pier, the shops in Piso Livadi are flooded with the most colourful, well-dressed crowd. It is then that this tranquil village on the eastern part of the island shows its real face, its popular and glamorous face. It’s quite likely you’ll find it difficult to find a parking spot, so if you find a space on the street before you reach the village, it’s best to park. Parikia may be the bustling capital and Naoussa the shining jewel of Paros, but Piso Livadi remains the undisputed quiet powerhouse, the place where those seeking more laidback entertainment on one of Greece’s most popular islands love to frequent.
Grab a table at Brazil with its striped, white-and-yellow cushions and large awning that protects you from the wind, for delicious, refreshing cocktails overlooking the twinkling lights of the beautiful houses on the other side of the settlement. If you want to enjoy a drink right on the sand, then there are always the classic options of Remezzo and Vroha, where families and groups often hang out in the morning for a swim and stay until late in the afternoon, having delicious crepes, pizza, or drinks. Or, if you want to sit on a balcony, then Ostrako is a good choice for handmade ice cream, fresh waffles, and the best panoramic view of the settlement.
For hiking afficionados, one beautiful route is the one to the top of the hill to see the church of Agios Georgios, which dates to the 13th century. From there, you can see not just the entire Piso Livadi, but also Marpissa, while the other two well-known villages of the area, Prodromos and Marmara that are gradually experiencing the tourist boom that has swept away the island, are also visible in the distance.
If your stamina and your mood allow it, you can organise a beautiful excursion to one of the other Cycladic islands with one of the boats that depart daily for Naxos, Ios, Mykonos, Delos, Koufonisia, and even Santorini or Amorgos. Most of the boats that depart from the pier in the small port of Paros leave very early in the morning, giving you the chance to see the sunrise. Even private cruises set sail from here and tour two or three islands in a single day, and they also offer lunch and drinks, making for a luxurious, unforgettable experience. At the beginning of the main pedestrian street, there are offices where you can book your tickets early and get all the necessary information about these day trips, so you can choose the one that suits you best.
Where to eat
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Halaris
One of the most famous restaurants, not just in Piso Livadi, but on the whole of Paros. It is located on the village’s main pedestrian street and is famous for its fish dishes and its excellent, Greek delicacies served with a modern approach and beautifully styled. In fact, anyone who has ever travelled to Paros, needs no introduction for the legendary Halaris. Try the orzo, the shrimp pasta, and the delicious, fresh tuna fillet, they are all excellent. Of course, you can’t leave here without drinking the traditional Parian souma, the famous local grape drink. At Halaris, you’ll get one of the best soumas.
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Gialos
At Halaris and all the restaurants on the main pedestrian street in Piso Livadi, the magnificent location that resembles a quaint, fishing village in southern Italy is a major plus. Gialos, a restaurant that first opened a few years ago in the location of Kanavos‘ restaurant, one of the oldest and most authentic eateries of Paros, makes a lovely impression with its tables right above the water, but what really steals the show is its truly great food. All the products are local, straight from the own vegetable garden. Try the fresh peach salad, the grilled squid, and the very juicy swordfish skewer cooked to perfection.
Markakis
Another well-known restaurant next to the sea in Piso Livadi, serving delicious seafood dishes with perfect presentation in a classy setting. The Parian skaltsounia, the cod croquettes, and the very light beetroot garlic sauce are all delicious. At Markakis restaurant, you’ll also enjoy very tasty, fresh salads and traditional appetizers with a twist. As with all restaurants in the area, it is a good idea to make a reservation in advance, as, especially in the evening hours, it gets very busy.
Read also:
The most beautiful villages of Paros
