The Agrafa region is one of the most isolated and inaccessible areas of Greece. Indeed, the most popular but probably untrue story about the origin of its name, which means ‘unwritten’ in Greek, is that the Ottoman authorities’ inability to collect taxes from its inhabitants resulted in the area being erased from tax records. Therefore, the name Agrafa means that it remained ‘unrecorded’.

12

Marathos is certainly a prime example of an unspoilt area like Agrafa. It has been described by the BBC as “the inaccessible Switzerland of Greece“. Standing in the village’s stone square, we gaze at the mountain ridges unfolding before us. It’s not just the snow-covered landscapes that are so impressive and have been imprinted on our minds. Before coming here, we had read that, according to UNESCO, Agrafa has some of the cleanest water and air in Europe, and we saw it for ourselves. Our Athenian lungs hadn’t felt this good in a long time.

The village was the home of Katsantonis, the legendary ‘klepht’ of Roumeli who was killed by Ali Pasha’s forces and is considered a proto-martyr of the Greek Revolution. A bust in the village square honours Katsantonis. The village had about 30 families at the beginning of the 19th century. In the census of 1907, the population figure was 403. Today, there are very few permanent residents, but during the weekend of the Holy Spirit, it fills up again with people when the festival of Katsantonia is held in honour of Katsantonis. People from Marathos return to the village to celebrate.

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Photo: Pericles Merakos
Fog is a common phenomenon/photo: Pericles Merakos

While we were there in wintertime the village was essentially deserted, but this allowed us to admire the arched bridges, water mills, stone houses and alleyways of Marathos. They were in better condition than one would expect in such a small place, as even those who no longer live here love and look after it. At the watermill, we meet one of the few permanent residents who explains how difficult daily life is in such a place, especially in winter. For him, moving is not an option; his life is completely identified with the mountains and waters of the area.

Before continuing our journey, we stop at the Church of the Archangels, which has stood on its site for hundreds of years and has stunning frescoes inside. Before getting back in the car to continue our exploration, we enjoy the freshness and clean air of the mountain once again. We feel fortunate to have come to this truly unspoilt place, perhaps the only one in Greece where everyday life is so reminiscent of times gone by.

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The bust of Katsantonis/Photo: Pericles Merakos
Church of the Archangels/Photo: Pericles Merakos

Tips for Your Visit

It’s best to come here in a vehicle you trust, and even better if it has four-wheel drive, as you’ll inevitably be driving on dirt roads.

Hikers will find themselves in a real paradise. After all, the area’s trails are still a hub of communication for the locals.

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Photo: Pericles Merakos
Agrafa/Photo: Shutterstock

Agrafa is truly ‘untouched’ by mass tourism. If you visit, make sure you show respect for nature. And a few figures to illustrate just how inaccessible this beautiful area is. Marathos is about 5 hours by car from Athens, about an hour and a half from Karpenisi, just under 2 hours from the touristically developed Megalo Chorio and 50 minutes from the main village of Agrafa, where there are accommodation and catering facilities. This infrastructure is also available in Kerasochori, about an hour’s drive away.

Read also:

Discovering the ‘Tholos’ Tomb of Mynias

Vaskina: Pastoral Bliss on Mt Parnon

In the Path of Aristotle in the Kalloni Wetlands