Ioannina is a town that is constantly changing, offering new places to go out, following trends and always alive and buzzing with activity. A stroll in the centre of Ioannina, reveals a wide network of beautiful and well-kept pedestrian streets, with nice shops. We enjoyed every minute we were in Ioannina, despite its reputation of being a rainy town; we walked in the vibrant Pargis square, on the Sakka pedestrian street, around the town hall, and in general around the commercial centre with the many shops. We tried delicacies, smelled the aromas, and above all, we met open-hearted, smiling, creative and active people. Below we present to you some of the things that stood out.
The goods from the Porikis bakery
It’s morning and we are walking in front of the imposing clock on Ioannina’s main street. Right across the clock, we see a small crowd standing in line and we go closer. It’s the Porikis bakery, that has been in operation for 40 years and is a meeting point, for its great sourdough bread, and the dozens baked goods, like the amazing tomato pies, the pepper pies and the Thessaloniki koulouri (thin round snack bread covered in sesame), as well as the famed chocolate or orange marmalade tsoureki (traditional sweet bread) that we tried and usually sells out fast.
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A large team of bakers arrives at the bakery at around 4 o’clock in the morning and starts preparing the goods. We meet with them much later, when the displays are filled, and people are standing in line waiting to buy bread and pastries. We speak with Theodoros Natsikos, the baker in charge, who tells us about the bakery’s long history, that his father-in-law first opened forty years ago, but also tells us about the bakery’s present.
“We maintain the quality, and focus on making new, innovative products. The greatest award for us is that our customers come to us daily for their bread and other baked goods.”
1 I. Gounari str, tel.: 0030 2651024444
The DuSel restaurant
Hotel Du Lac’s fine dining restaurant, with the stunning view of the Ioannina lake. A warm, welcoming, elegant space ideal to take you on a tour of Epirotic gastronomy. Du Sel’s kitchen is based on locality and seasonality. Modern touches, smart twists, contemporary cooking techniques, based on the mythical gastronomy of Epirus. The traditional trout, from the freezing Epirotic waters, is served with roasted almonds gaining intensity and depth. The sauteed shrimps are served with ouzo sauce and fennel. The local manouri cheese is ideally combined with the marinated figs.
Flavours that honour everything that the land traditionally has to offer, the farming and livestock products of the Epirotic mountains, the mushrooms, the lake’s produce, with the rare eels and the smoked fish, while at the same time also using new products, like the black chicken in tea sauce and saffron from Kozani. Du Sel’s wine list showcases the unique terroir of the most mountainous vineyard in Greece, and also presents some of the rarest wines of local varieties. Warmth, pleasure and original cuisine.
Hotel du Lac, Karolou Papoulia & Ikkou str, tel.: 0030 2651059100
The emblematic Saint George bar
It’s a bar that, in a way, is associated with fun in town. It’s located in the Pargis square, right next to the Agios Georgios church, and is the perfect spot for a pit stop when in the centre of town, or even for after work drinks, with an Italian air. Saint George is buzzing with activity from early in the morning until late at night. It starts with coffee, and some tasty snacks, at the tables on the square, and gradually the orders for drinks increase. The space resembles a classic bar, with nice tall stools, an interesting wine and spirit list, and great service.
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Andreas and Elpida, the owners, leave nothing to chance. They carefully select the wines, that you can enjoy with a charcuterie platter, from the Greek and international vineyard. They also have a great drinks and cocktail list. The music is something they’ve invested in, with the DJ located in the best spot.
20 V. Pirsinela str, Pargis square, tel.: 0030 2651023687
The Petridis Deli
The deli on Napoleon Zervas street, in the centre of Ioannina, is a cheese and cured meats paradise, with a focus on locality and quality. In 1988, Ilias Petridis opened the shop and started sourcing the best cheeses and cured meats in Epirus. Today, almost forty years later, his daughter, Fotini, is in charge of this historic establishment that keeps quality as its main priority, adding new products, form her fresh perspective, like legumes, pasta, jams and herbs from local producers.
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In the cheese sector in particular, they sell cheeses from the Tossizza dairy in Metsovo, as well as select cheeses from the Tsoutsouvlidis dairy. The metsovone, mozzarella, parmesan, geladotiri Metsovou, vlahotiri, gidograviera, feta from Etoloakarnania are just a few of the reasons that make Petridis Deli a meeting spot.
64 Napoleontos Zerva str, tel.: 0030 6951413463
The Kollias Coffee Roastery
The Kollias coffee roastery, whose aromas fill the Pargis square, one of the most vibrant and constantly changing square’s in town, first opened in 1977. The roastery has its devoted following that comes here from all over town to buy their favourite blend for Greek coffee.
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“We have customers that have been coming here since the early 80s,” Efstathia Kollia, who has taken over the roastery from her father, tells us. Apart from Greek coffee and other coffees, here you can also buy various other treats to go with your coffee, like hard candies, pasteli (traditional sesame and honey bars, usually crunchy), dried nuts, sweetmeats and other confections.
6A Pargis Square, tel.: 0030 2651034653
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The special Beanhive Roasters
Located on the Sakka pedestrian street, this is the new coffee spot in town. It opened just a few weeks ago, with the return of Ilias Loupas, the owner, to Ioannina, after having worked for many years in the coffee sector in Athens. “Our return to Ioannina coincided with the birth of our daughter, Zoi, and we think that here we will be able to offer her a better and more meaningful everyday life”. He has decorated the walls with songs he likes, while he names the blends after his favourite bands.
He likes to interact with customers, whether they order take away or choose to sit there. “I want to talk about the coffee so I can see what people like and dislike, and so that I can answer questions. Coffee is something very alive that is worth dedicating time to”. Beanhive is a lively place, with many flowers that Mr Mihalis, Ilias’ uncle, takes care of. It’s worth a visit when you’re in town.
20 Sakka str, tel.: 0030 26516 07240
“Souzi tros” next to the castle
A well-kept and elegant space next to the castle, on Giosef Eliya street that is described as a neo-tavern. At first, Souzi tros (it means “Suzie, you eat”, and is a humorous reference to an old Greek movie) caught out attention due to its name, but soon, as the food arrived to our table, the flavours and the perfect preparations became the main focus.
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We tried delicious meats, prepared to perfection, exactly how we ordered them, and fresh salads. The service was good, and we left feeling content but not stuffed.
13 Giosef Eliya, tel.: 0030 2651033606
The coffee aromas from Kofi Microroastery
The love and passion for quality coffee, and also the need for environmental and social sustainability resulted in the creation of a very special space, on a small pedestrian street, behind the town hall. Kofi is a modern, industrial café where apart from a wide range of coffees you can also find a variety of teas, fresh juices, and a rich breakfast, brunch and lunch selection.
Omelettes, croque madame and croque monsieur, bruschetta’s, bagels, croissants, and many more turn this corner into a must culinary destination. Ramon, the friendly Labrador host is sure to win you over.
4 Katsimitrou, tel.: 0030 2651607219
The Arte Povera kitchen
It’s located within the castle walls and serves coffees and beverages and also has a great menu with dishes of the Epirotic traditional cuisine. It’s classically decorated with rustic touches and exudes calm and relaxation. It opens in the morning and the main concern of Kostas and Paris, the two owners, is to source the ingredients from small producers and to cook traditional recipes.
After a nice walk around ‘Its Kale’ and the castle, this is a great spot to rest and enjoy a glass of tsipouro (traditional pomace raki) or ouzo, of mead or rakomelo (raki with honey) in the nice garden, or in one of the nice rooms inside. They serve a variety of dishes, including bean soup, meat soup, various pies and daily specials.
66 Andronikou Paleologou str, Ioannina Castle, tel.: 0030 26510 2265
The traditional coffee shop Its Kale
Within the Its Kale, in one of the most emblematic locations in the castle, you’ll find the coffee shop of the same name. It’s a must stop during your visit, as they serve delicious pies, meat and seafood plateaus, all perfect matches to your tsipouro or ouzo.
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