The narrow, all-white alley would look like a dead end if it didn’t lead to the door of Nōema, the entrance to a new, delicious and highly aesthetic world. Having arrived half an hour earlier than my reservation, I decide to wait in the small, elegant courtyard at the entrance.

8

Simple lines in pale shades, wooden furniture in raw style, elegant plants and the sweet sunset light on the wall with the imposing but modest font, while the last rays of the sun fight their way through the alleys of the island. The courtesy of the staff at the door makes me feel pampered and looked after, but it also foreshadows the quality of the experience I’m about to have. By now, everything seems to make sense already, or as Greeks usually, say to gain nōema, which is the Greek word for meaning or substance; a word that means exactly the same in seven different languages; a word that embodies the meaning of life in the Cyclades.

The space has been tastefully created, offering a warm, welcoming environment. Heavy, wooden tables are neatly arranged among the trunks of the imposing trees. The long bar, on one side of the courtyard, adorned with cacti and warm lighting, is inspired by some exotic side of the Mediterranean.

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Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Photo: Nikos Kokkas

The serving process has begun, under the clear-cut light fixtures, like a dance performance starring the employees moving lightly, almost airily, between the tables. The long robe they wear has a simple explanation: among well-groomed and dressed-up people, who dominate the space in numbers, a cassock automatically attracts all eyes. The hosts of Nōema and exponents of courtesy, hospitable communication and Cycladic gastronomy are berobed. An elegant feast is held every day in this courtyard.

The dishes are exuberant, suitable for sharing. One might even feel like sharing their dish with the guests sitting on the adjacent table. Mediterranean flavours, with small but substantial, subtle touches of modern cuisine, a balanced menu, airy and fluffy bread, scents and aromas that bring back our carefree childhood years. Anticipation for the next dish. It’s almost impossible to let the waiter pick up the dishes before you’ve enjoyed every last drop of every mouth-watering sauce.

The wine sparkles in the elegant glasses as they are constantly filled, the voices get a little louder – the sense of hospitality has completely taken over. The music serves as a background, without any tendency to dominate. The food is shared as at a beautiful, Sunday, family table.

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Photo: Nikos Kokkas
Chef, Athinagoras Kostakos / Photo: Nikos Kokkas
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Simpicity making sense / Photo: Nikos Kokkas
A warm, welcoming environment / Photo: Nikos Kokkas

While waiting for the dessert, a Greek variation of tiramisu, with carob and a dash of alcohol, I’m thinking that Nōema could easily be a big success outside the borders. The experience of Cycladic gastronomy, with exclusively seasonal and regional raw materials· this big banquet with guests who do not settle for mere sensationalism· this idea born in Greece· this return to the roots of Cycladic cuisine and traditional ways of cooking, in clay pots and open fire· these explosions of flavours and aromas· the return to basic values through a dining experience is a concept that had been brewing for almost two years in the mind of Athenagoras Kostakos.

www.noemamykonos.com