Bordering Monastiraki, Akropolis, and Ano Petralona, Thiseio is the central neighbourhood where locals and tourists alike gather to walk among classical ruins, to search out cobbled streets with views of the Parthenon, and to climb ancient hills that look over to seas where great battles were fought. A part of the giant archaeological adventure park that is central Athens, Thiseio has a front row seat on many of the city’s most famous attractions.
A day of exploration is best broken with a stop for lunch in one of the many neighbourhood cafés, while a sunset visit to Pnyx should be celebrated with a drink in a charismatic bar among the celebrated streets and squares.
Caravin Wine and Wanderlust
Passionate hosts Anna and Leoni gave up promising careers to follow their dreams of wine, adventure and travel. A modern space with brushed concrete, wooden accents, and a mosaic tiled wall, the feel is both retro and contemporary with references to Greek modernism and sleek Scandi minimalism. There is a terrific short menu of modern Greek dishes including Fava with Octopus Carpaccio, Aubergine salad with chili and smoked almonds, lamb souvlaki with tabbouleh, and sausages with chickpeas and tahini. Confident and inventive, the food is an ideal counterpoint to the all-Greek wine list from boutique labels and small producers. Tutored tastings of indigenous varieties and from different regions of Greece are available, or maybe just pull up a stool at the marble bar and enjoy a glass while daydreaming of a different life inspired by the charismatic owners.
Address: Caravin Wine and Wanderlust Akamantos 11, Thiseio, 11851 (Tel.: 21140 03962), www.caravin.gr
The Underdog
One of the best brunch spots in Athens, The Underdog has won international awards for its coffee roastery and baristas. A beautifully restored neoclassical building with an airy atrium and a large outdoor yard is the perfect place on pretty pedestrian Iraklidon Street to start the day’s expeditions in the shadow of the Acropolis. Fill up on classic Eggs Benedict, Croque Madame, or hearty omelettes, while the pancakes are a dream for those with a sweet tooth. Open from 8am to 6pm, there are more substantial salads, burgers, and fully stacked sandwiches on offer too. The coffee, of course, is legendary, roasted daily at their factory in Gazi, and available to take home for home brewing, but the bar mixes a fine cocktail too. Cosmopolitan and funky, this bright and trendy space would not look out of place in Berlin, London or Amsterdam but the friendly laidback vibe reminds you that you are footsteps away from ancient Athens.
Address: The Underdog Iraklidon 8, Thiseio, 11851 (Tel.:21303 65393), www.underdog.gr
Syntrimmi
Seemingly unchanged in decades, Syntrimmi is an authentic hangout for a true taste of Athenian café culture. Never fashionable or bothered by trends, the aim is sincere; to serve good food and drink in a friendly environment. Classic metal tables and rattan chairs in a cosy courtyard host a menu of traditional Greek small plates. Honest and true, it is a meeting place for like-minded regulars; urbane philosophers who debate the nature of existence, and a healthy student populace who appreciate the keen prices and homely atmosphere. It will never win any awards for interior design but it is not all old fashioned; the beer is from microbreweries and the wine is well sourced. Untroubled by tourists, settle in for an afternoon or evening of no-nonsense good food and conversation in a traditional Athenian watering hole. A refreshing contrast to an increasingly gentrified Thiseio, Syntrimmi should be celebrated for continuing to plough an idiosyncratic furrow in a field of lookalike establishments.
Address: Syntrimmi Chalkidikis 52, Thiseio, 10447 (Tel.: 21304 46962), facebook.com
Artopoleion
Under a bower of exotic vines, a smattering of unassuming tables look out onto Irakleidon Street. Walk past and you would assume it is a typical café catering to the tourist trade. Further inspection, though, reveals an Aladdin’s Cave of baked goods. Stunning sourdough loaves to takeaway are displayed alongside artisan chocolate bars and homemade cakes and sweets. Beautifully presented breakfasts are offered with fresh fruits, wholesome pies and freshly squeezed juices. Spot-on coffee and a fabulous service add up to a true neighbourhood gem. Discrete and super-friendly, Artopoleion is a place to relax and pull out the maps to plan the day and visit the nearby sights.
Address: Artopoleion Irakleidon 25, Thiseio, 11851 (Tel.: 21034 27890), facebook.com
Skales
In the heart of Thiseio where Apostolou Pavlou, Iraklidon, and Prikos Streets meet is Plateia Jacqueline de Romilly. Restaurants, tavernas, bars and cafés surround the square where locals and visitors chat long into the night. Skales means stairs and the café is indeed hidden behind a set of steps. A typical neighbourhood kafeneion that serves up great coffee, the menu of small plates is traditional and great value for money. Pop in for a quick, flavourful lunch or, better, visit at night, take a flask of Tsipouro or Ouzo and a handful of dishes and put the world to rights as half of its population seems to pass by.
Address: Skales Akamantos 2, Thiseio, 11851 (Tel.: 21034 65647), facebook.com
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