Every place carries its own history. The latter is in some way influenced by every land’s very morphology, which creates needs and bears fruit, inspires myths and weaves stories. Some places carry a remarkably long history and mountainous Arcadia falls into this category.

25

Mount Menalo has been associated since antiquity with countless myths because the Arcadians – the ancient inhabitants of the mountain – apart from the Olympian gods, they also worshipped Pan. The goat-footed god was the protector of the cattle breeders, fishermen, hunters and shepherds who lived permanently in mountains, forests, caves and gullies. The Arcadians believed that Pan had been born on Mount Kyllini in ancient Arcadia and was the son of the god Hermes and the nymph Penelope, whom the god – transformed into a goat- deceived, which is why Pan was born with horns and goat’s feet, bearded and with pointed ears. The myths about Pan seem to have first appeared in Arcadia in the 7th century BC before spreading throughout Greece.

From the mountain of Pan, the rivers Lousios and Elisson, tributaries of the Alpheus, originate. The former runs through an impressive 15 km long gorge. Although it is not one of the largest rivers in Greece, Lousios flows all year round. According to Pausanias, the river was named thus after the nymphs Neda, Agno and Theisoa bathed the newborn Zeus at its waters as they believed the river to be the source of immortals.

But the morphology of the region has not only inspired myths. It also shaped the lifestyle and character of the Arcadians, who for dozens of centuries, even in the most difficult moments in their history, demonstrated their resilient spirit. During the Middle Ages, Arcadia, like the entire Peloponnese, attracted Slavic tribes, as evidenced by several toponyms that survive to this day (Stemnitsa, Limbovisi, etc.). Moreover, during the period of the Greek War of Independence, mountainous Arcadia played a very important role in the liberation struggle.

From antiquity to the present day, mountainous Arcadia carries countless legends and stories, while the mountain, whose name means “the sacred fury of wild nature”, is anything but furious in spring. Its slopes bloom and its peaks shed their last white tufts of snow. If you ask the locals, they will tell you that mountainous Arcadia in spring is more beautiful than ever.

Hiking the Lousios gorge

The coldest, according to Pausanias, river of the ancient world springs from an area north-west of Menalo, the ancient Theisoa, flows west of the village of Dimitsana and then plunges into an impressive gorge, before finally meeting the river Alpheus near the village of Karytaina.

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Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi
Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi

The best way to experience its breathtaking beauty is to follow the Menalon Trail, a 75-kilometre-long modular hiking trail. Starting from Stemnitsa and ending in Lagadia, the route is based on parts of an ancient network of paths and passes through seven other Arcadian villages. It is the first Greek and the tenth European trail to receive the Leading Quality Trail certification from the European Hiking Confederation.

Strange as it may sound, we set out to search for traces of Pan’s hooves from the Monastery of Prodromos, built in the 16th century – literally in the rocks. The monastic community in the Lousios gorge began to develop as early as the 10th century. After admiring the impressive architecture of the monastery and the view of the canyon, we set off on the trail that crosses the gorge.

As one approaches the river, the vegetation becomes thicker and thicker, while at the same time Lousios’ roar gets louder and louder. Since 1997, the gorge has been classified as an area of special archaeological and ecological interest and is protected by the Ministry of Culture.

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Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi
Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi

Crossing the roaring river, the trail starts to climb to the opposite side of the gorge and the Monastery of Filosofos. First we come across the old monastery, founded in 963 by Ioannis Lampardopoulos, the so-called philosopher, who was the secretary of Emperor Nikiforos Fokas. Built inside a cave, the old monastery is one of the oldest Byzantine monuments in Greece. Today only ruins of cells, a cistern and a small Byzantine chapel of the 10th century with its frescoes are preserved. Continuing further up the path leads to the new Monastery of Filosofos, which was founded in the 17th century.

It is worth noting that apart from hiking, the Lousios gorge is also ideal for many other activities, such as canoeing, kayaking and rafting.

Ancient Theatre of Megalopolis

About three kilometres from present-day Megalopolis, the archaeological site of the ancient Megali Polis (meaning big city), one of the most glorious cities of ancient Arcadia, takes us back in time again, namely to the 3rd century BC.

Built shortly after 370 BC, the theatre of Megalopolis came to light after excavations carried out at the end of the last century by the British School of Archaeology, along with the Thersileion Parliament and the ruins of the Ancient Agora and walls. It was the largest theatre in the ancient Greek world and was a very important intellectual and artistic centre in the 3rd century BC. It is even estimated that its capacity was around 18,000-20,000 spectators. The reason why it was built so large was that, in addition to theatrical performances, it also hosted political meetings among the 40 Arcadian cities that existed around Megalopolis, which could be attended by as many citizens as they wished. In addition to its size, this theatre also had excellent acoustics.

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Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi
Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi

The ancient theatre is the main monument of the archaeological site and an indication of how powerful Megalopolis was – a city that experienced glory and splendour, but failed to survive for more than two centuries. The ancient theatre of Megalopolis is included in a European project funded by UNESCO. The aim is to carry out appropriate restoration work, which will further highlight the importance of this ancient monument. The archaeological site of Megalopolis is open daily from 08:30 to 15:30.

The unique collection of the Folklore Museum of Vytina

The journey through the inconceivably long history of mountainous Arcadia does not necessarily follow a linear course. But it is precisely this feature that fascinates. Ancient myths and legends, as well as documented facts of more recent history spring up from every corner. The Arcadians love their land’s long history, keep the memories alive and share them widely.

So after the ancient theatre we head to Vytina for one last stop. In the heart of the beautiful Arcadian town, on the central square, the impressively rich collection of the Folklore Museum of Vytina recounts a more recent historical chapter, creating vivid images of the cultural past of the place.

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Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi
Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi

The museum is housed in a stone-built former shoemaker’s workshop. When it was closed, the shoemaker himself gave it over to house the folklore museum. So his chair, workbench and machine remain in place exactly as he left them to this day. In total, some 650 old objects of everyday life are on display. They all come from the private collections of the teacher Leonidas Anagnostopoulos and the barber and correspondent of the local newspaper of the time Sotiris Koukas.

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Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi
Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi

The museum’s exhibits are arranged by categories. In addition, through a very special half-hour tour, visitors learn the history of each object, as well as stories about many different Greek phrases that we still use today, often colloquially, unaware of their origins or even their true meaning.

The museum features exhibits of great interest, such as photographs, household utensils, clothing and household equipment. An entire corner is dedicated to the loom, which was never missing from any home. All the family’s clothes and household linens at that time came from the loom.

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Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi
Photo: Angeliki Kouroutzi

Also on display are agricultural and viticultural tools that narrate the entire tsipouro production process, from boiling, steaming, liquefaction and finally distillation.

Manuscripts, photographs, ecclesiastical objects, tools and many other examples of folk culture underline the great importance of this museum in terms of tradition. The museum operates on a voluntary basis and is open by appointment with the president of the Cultural Association of Vytina, Mr Katsoulias (+30 697 2009573).

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